DIY Network

Paint and Seat Re-Cover: Powder Coating and Seat Restoration From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-111

Figure A

In the first two segment of this episode of the '74 Vespa Sprint Veloce project, host Kevin Tetz revealed some painting tips and metal-finishing techniques. In this segment he powder coats the scooter's rim and restores the seat.

Powders for powder coating come in a variety of different colors and textures. The wheels of the project scooter were in need of a restoration due to rust, so Kevin opted to do a powder coat because it's a durable finish. This particular wheel comes with a chrome treatment (figure A). Kevin decided to have them professionally bead blasted.

Powder Coating

• First the metal needs to be prepared properly, which means you have to make sure all the paint is off, and it has to be metal that can withstand 450 degrees. The best way to prep for powder coating is sandblasting.

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	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F

• The rim on the project scooter is two-piece and it comes apart (figure B) with a fastener attached. You need to make sure the fastener doesn't get the powder build-up, which will interfere with the locking of the nut onto the stud.

• Using fiberglass tape, cover the rim's threaded studs to avoid powder-coat buildup. All the threads should be tightly taped (figure C).

• Next, thread the wire through the rim openings.

  Note: Be sure to suspend the rim on a baking rack, making sure not to come in contact with it, and get rid of all impurities that might interfere with the powder coating.

• Attach the ground clip to an inconspicuous part on the part that will be powder coated. The reason for this is that you must have a bare metal contact, and it could possibly leave a little spot where some powder is not quite covering 100 percent. The ground clip (figure D) supplies the negative charge to the system.

• The powder gun supplies the positive charge to this system, and it actually charges the powder as it's coming through the emitter. Now with the positively charged powder and the negatively charged part, the powder will stick really well.

  Note: One of the benefits of powder coating is that you can get into tight areas that would be hard to access by hand.

  Safety Alert: When working with powder make sure to wear a respirator and safety glasses -- and be in a well-ventilated area.

• Fill the container about two-thirds of the way with the powder, and attach the container to the gun.

• Attach the air supply, regulate it to approximately 10-15 pounds (figure E), and you're finally ready to apply the powder coat.

• Keep the gun a couple of inches from the part. While coating the entire piece, get into all the tight crevices. The positively charged powder clings immediately to the negatively charged rim.

• From here it's just a matter of taking the ground clip loose carefully so you won't disturb any of the powder -- because it's still dry in this form.

• Place the rim in an oven that's been preheated to 425 degrees, and let the powder-coated rim bake for approximately 10 minutes. The heat from the oven melts the plastic powder.

• Turn the oven off and let the rim cool for an additional 15 minutes.

• With the rim cooled, remove it from the oven and clip the wires -- and remove the smooth glossy rim (figure F).

	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I
	Figure J

Seat Restoration

Note: As mentioned earlier, the foam of the project scooter's seat is in pretty good shape, but the cover isn't (figure G).

• To remove the worn-out seat cover from the foam, release the clips. You'll reuse the clips so be careful when removing them.

• With the clips off, remove the old seat cover and expose the foam seat. The bottom of the DIY project scooter is extremely rusty, so Kevin uses an abrasive pad to knock the rust off the seat frame.

• Spray a rust encapsulating primer to the bottom of the seat (figure H), which will stop the rusting process by starving the rust of oxygen. Allow the primer time to dry.

• With the primer dry you're ready to put the seat into its new cover. Gently fit the seat into the slip cover, and work the seat evenly and push down on the seat while pulling up on the cover.

• Flip the seat over and pull the cover downward. Repeat the same process on the front to make sure the cover is snug -- and to avoid any wrinkles.

• Tuck the precut cover under the tabs and slip the clips that you removed earlier back into place (figure I).

  Tip: Be sure to install one side at a time to avoid putting both sides under tension.

• Now move to the other side and repeat the clip-installation process. Again, stretch the cover around the frame and insert the clips.

  Tip: If you're seat cover won't stretch, use a hairdryer to heat the vinyl, which will give it more stretch.

• To wrap up the seat restoration, you need to install the seat hardware and accessories. Start by installing the seat strap. Find the threaded hole in the frame and make a small hole in the vinyl.

• Put the fastener in the seat strap and screw it in place. Repeat the process on the other side and screw the fastener into place.

• Move on to the seat lock. Slide the lock through the opening and tighten the bolts holding the lock into place.

• Finally, slide the emblem into the alignment holes and tighten it down (figure J) with a Phillips-head screwdriver.

In the final segment of this episode, Kevin starts customizing the scooter with a two-tone paint job -- using spray painting.

RESOURCES :

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Norton Abrasives

Sandpapers, cleaners, abrasives and bodywork supplies.
Website: www.nortonautomotive.com

Vespa Restoration Parts (Scomo)
Scomo
Website: www.scomo.net

Stock Photos, Videos, CD Rom and Timesurfer (Piaggio)
Piaggio, USA, Inc.
Website: www.piaggio.com/

Touch-Up, Spray and Color-Shifting Paint (Dupli-color)
Dupli-color
Website: www.duplicolor.com