DIY Network

Golf-Cart Conversion Kit: Installing Body Panels From "Weekend Mechanic" episode WKM-312

	The converted golf cart.
	Like chrome? This fully restored 1957 Chevy Bel Air has it in spades.

In this episode of DIY's Weekend Mechanic, host Bruce Bonebrake converts an ordinary old golf-cart into a miniature replica of a 1957 Chevy Bel Air. In this segment, the body panels are installed and the finishing touches are put on the converted golf-cart.

Materials:

In addition to standard auto-mechanic's tools (wrenches, ratchets, extenders, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, torque wrench, etc.), some of the specialty tools and materials that needed for this project include fiberglass body panels, custom-covered seats, chrome wheels, new tires, lighting components, body decals, hole-saw, 3/4" driver drill, battery tester, grease gun wire strippers and metal shears. An air-compressor and set of pneumatic tools will is optional, but may be very helpful for this project.

DIY Difficulty Rating for the Project: This job is fun and fairly straightforward, but it does require some careful body work as well as electrical re-wiring and work with batteries. It could be difficult for a new or untrained mechanic. We gave it a difficulty rating of 3 on a 5-point intermediate-level scale. Assisting us with this project is Dennis Ruger of Phat Cat© Carts Inc.

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Installing the Fiberglass Body Panels

With the wiring for the lights complete, work can begin installing the body parts. The first step is to transfer the locations of the holes for fasteners on the old body parts onto the new ones from the kit. A simple way to do that is to create a template out of cardboard, and mark the locations of the holes from the old parts, then use that template for drilling the new holes.

• For marking the template for the rear body panel, use the old seat-hinge recesses (figure A) as reference points.

• Line up the cardboard edge with the old body-panel edge, mark then hinge recesses as alignment guides and begin cutting and drilling the template (figure B) to mark the locations you'll need.

  Figure A

  Figure B

  
  

• Using the hinge recesses as your reference points, use your template as a guide for drilling the new holes in the new fiberglass body parts (figure C). Use a hole-saw drill-attachment for cutting the large hole that will be needed for the recharger-cable receptacle.

• With all the necessary holes drilled in the fiberglass, carefully lift and position the rear body-panel on the cart (figure D).

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

• Reinstall the screw that secures the body panel at the front end (figure E).

• Reinstall the recharger-cable receptacle and secure the faceplapte by tightening down its mounting screws (figure F).

• Important: Avoid over-tightening any of these mounting screws. Over-tightening could cause the fiberglass to crack.

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

• Reinstall the controller for the transmission and secure it with the original three screws. Then screw the controller handle back in position (figure G).

• Re-attach the seat-hinges (for the seat bottom) on the top of the body panel.

• Pre-drill holes in the fiberglass for mounting the seat-back frames and bolt the frames back in position using the original bolts and nuts (figure H).

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

  Figure I

• Reinstall the rear roof pillars and install the new back-holder onto the seat-back frame.

• Carefully slide the trunk-lid onto the hinges (figure I).

• Install the taillights into their sockets.
  

• With the rear panel installed, you can now begin installation of the front body panel. To mount this panel, you'll need to pre-drill holes for the T-nuts that will secure this panel to the frame. The T-nuts will be concealed by a metal edging that will be installed afterward.

• Carefully position the front body panel (figure J).

• With the panel in position, secure it with metal T-nuts. These are installed from the outside and are held on by a small bolt from the inside (figure K).

  Figure J

  Figure K

  
  

• With all of the T-nuts installed, slide the metal edging down into position (figure L).

• Pre-drill the holes for the windshield and bolt the windshield in place using the original bolts (figure M).

  Figure L

  Figure M

  
  

  	Figure N
  	Figure O

• With the front body-panel mounted and secured, you can wire the front lights. Recall that the power- and ground-wires for these lights were installed earlier and routed to the front of the frame using a wire loom. Wire the lights by splicing the main power- and ground-wires onto the corresponding wires on the light fixtures (figure N). On our cart, one set of wires ran to the headlight and running light on the left side, and the second set ran to the headlight and running light on the right side. We routed our wires first to the headlights, then branched off to the running lights. Your wiring instructions may vary. Read and follow all of the wiring directions and diagrams that come with your kit.

• Secure the headlights in their openings using the trim rings and screws provided (figure O).
  

• Peel off the backing on the grill decal and carefully place it on the grill-panel insert. Then add the Chevy decal to the center of the panel (figure P).

• Place the grill-panel into the recess in the front of the body and secure it with the four body-panel screws (figure Q).

• Connect the running lights to the power- and ground-wires from the headlights, and secure the running lights in their sockets. The wiring is now complete

  Figure P

  Figure Q

  
  

• Next, we installed a wood-grain dash panel which fits around the steering column and slides down onto the dash frame. Reinstall the ignition switch onto the panel and secure it with its collar. A wood-grain dash is optional, and the cost is around $100. Reinsert the start key and mount the panel back in place. Drill a few small holes into the rim of the dash panel and secure it to the frame with screws (figure R).

• Reconnect the batteries, making certain to connect positive cables first and ground cables last. Tighten down the lock-nuts on each battery post, being careful to avoid overtightening.

• With the batteries all hooked back up, install the seatbacks using the original mounting screws. Carefully lower the new seat-bottom into place (figure S) and check for proper fit.

  Figure R

  Figure S

  
  

• Install the new fiberglass roof (figure T) using the original brackets and bolts.

• Remove the old wheels and tires using an air-wrench.

• Install the new wheels and tires and tighten down the lug nuts.

• Apply the side decals into the body-fin recesses (figure U) and apply the Chevrolet name decals to the hood and trunk.

  Figure T

  Figure U

  
  

  The distinctive tailfins and rear chrome of the classic 1957 Chevy Bel Air.

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection and ear protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools. Also wear eye protection any time that you are working beneath a vehicle.

Safety Alert: As a standard safety precaution, always disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable before you begin work on any electrical or mechanical components.

Safety Alert: As a standard safety precaution, don't rely solely on a jack to support the weight of a vehicle. When using a jack to access or work beneath a vehicle, always use jack stands for support. Make sure that the jack and stands that you use are rated for the weight and type of your vehicle.

RESOURCES :

Phat Cat® Carts Inc.
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