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Cast Resin Bobblehead Learn how to create a unique bobblehead doll with polymer clay. From "Craft Lab" episode DCLB-102

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Bobblehead Mold

With the finished figure made of polymer clay, Gretchen Martin make a mold of the bobblehead by pouring silicone molding material over the bobblehead in a foam core box.

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	Gretchen Martin's step-by-step instructions, left, show you...
	how to create the molds for the CopyCat® bobbleheads.

Molding Materials:

Silpak silicone molding material, Parts A and B
resin casting compound, Parts A and B
4 or 5 disposable cups (suggested: use plastic calibrated containers)
2 of 3 paint stir sticks
rubber gloves
baby powder or mold release agent (optional)
hot glue gun/glue sticks (optional)
2 containers for molds (may use large paper cups, cardboard box, or construct a box out of foam core and hot gluing edges as described below)

Foam Core Box Construction Materials (optional):

1 sheet of foam core board
hot glue gun/glue sticks
masking or duct tape

Bobblehead Mold

1. You can make foam core board boxes (optional) to create containers to pour molds in. Cut the foam core to the following sizes: for the copy cat "head" mold, you need one 5" x 4" rectangle, two 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" squares, and two 3-1/2" x 5" rectangles. For the copy cat "body" mold you need one 5" x 4-1/2" rectangle, two 4" x 4" squares, and two 4" x 5" rectangles.

2. To create a mold container for the Copy Cat "head"—place the 5" x 4" rectangle down to position it as the bottom of the box you are about to create. Bead hot glue on one of the 5" edges of one of the 3-1/2" x 5" rectangles. Glue the piece perpendicular, matching it on top of the 5" edge of the bottom piece.

3. Bead hot glue along two adjacent edges of one of the 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" squares. Glue it perpendicular on top of the next edge of the bottom piece, also securing this piece to the one previously glued. Continue around with the next two pieces. Secure the bindings with more hot glue on the outside and inside seams to clog up any holes that may cause leaks in your mold. Re-secure the edges with painters tape.

4. Repeat steps using 5" x 4-1/2" rectangle as a base to create mold container for Copy Cat "body."

Molding

1. Find two disposable containers to pour molds or build foam core boxes as instructed in materials list.

   Tip: Paper cups or cardboard boxes work well. Make sure the seams of the boxes are sealed so they will not leak. It is best to use containers that leave about 1/2" to 1" of space around the figure. Don't use containers that are too big, or you will waste valuable molding compound and be left with very heavy molds that are difficult to work with.

2. Position pieces inside containers. For the Body, place figure inside container facing forward and draw guides for "parting lines" on the outer sides of the container. The parting lines depict where you will cut the mold open once it cures. Preferably, parting lines should be placed on the sides of the figure, rather than through the front and back. The parting lines for the body will be simple vertical lines through the middle of the box.

3. For the head, place figure balancing on the back of its head, supported by ears. Hot glue down, if necessary. Draw guides for parting lines on the outer sides of the container. Again, trace a vertical line down the center of one side of the box and this time, curve the bottom of the parting line to follow along the edge of the cat's ear. Repeat on the other side.

   Tip: You cannot have "undercuts" when molding. Undercuts are any overhanging pieces of your sculpture that cause space on the underside of the figure, thus why the cat's head must be molded by placing it down on the back side of its head (due to the hole in the bottom of the neck). Undercut problems can be solved creatively, or you can fill the holes, or mold pieces separately when necessary.

4. Prep silicone mold compound by mixing ten parts of A to one part of B. (For foam core boxes constructed as above, about 64 ounces of A and 6.4 ounces of B should fill both molds.) Fold mixture together, making sure to scrape compound on the insides of your mixing container to blend it thoroughly until the compound is a solid blue color. Avoid stirring quickly, which will create air bubbles.

5. Pour the mixture inside the molding container by pouring around the figure until the entire piece is engulfed about 1/2" to 1" over the top of the figure. Pour both molds. Let it set overnight.

6. Cut through container of cured mold, peal away carton. Re-draw parting line guides with a marker on the outside of the mold by eyeing the lines you previously drew on the outside of your molding container.

7. Flip mold upside down to reveal the bottom of your figure and an opening into the mold. Take a hobby knife and slice from the center opening on the top of your now flipped over mold and cut toward the top of your parting line guide. Trace knife down alongside guide until you are about an inch away from the bottom of the guide and mold.

   Warning: Don't cut all the way through the mold. Only cut deep enough so that you will be able to remove the figures.

8. Repeat cut on other side. Go back and forth between both sides of parting lines, cutting deeper into the mold (in, down and out) until the top of your knife hits the figure inside. Slowly, the figure will reveal itself. Remove figure when a sufficient opening is achieved. Repeat for second mold.

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