NOTE: Images on this page may be enlarged for enhanced viewing simply by clicking on them.Following below are some frequently asked questions and additional information on dome-house construction from the producers of Be Your Own Contractor: Vacation Homes.
Where can I build a dome?Almost anyplace, although there are a few exceptions. Deed restrictions and homeowner associations can limit the type structure that can be built. Some developments or communities control the size, cost and appearance of the homes. Before you buy the land ask if there are any restrictions. Zoning ordinances control the use of the land (residential, business, etc.), set-backs from property lines, size, and height limits and similar things, but we have never heard of a zoning restriction on domes.
What items should I consider when planning to build my geodesic dome?
The building industry is not only behind the times, it moves slowly. We cannot stress enough the importance of starting your preparations early for all aspects of building. What you think may take two months can easily consume four or five months -- or more. To have any hope of beginning the actual construction on time, you must at least double the time you think it will take to acquire blueprints, financing, building permits, contractors or subcontractors. Optimists should triple their expectations.
Can the domes have basements or be built upon stilts or pilings?
Yes. Domes can be built upon a basement, stilts or pilings. You determine how many openings you want in the basement walls for garage doors or for windows and doors. And you determine if and how many of the basement sides you want burmed with dirt. Full basements are the same size and shape as the dome first floor. We have basement plans available that explain how the dome is attached to the basement, etc. -- for example rebars need to come out of the basement wall to connect into the dome riser walls, etc.
What type of hoisting mechanism or crane will I need and for how long?
The panels of our smaller domes can be placed using a steel scaffold on rollers. The panel is then held in place with a prop support until the seam concrete hardens. The panels for the larger domes may be best placed using a crane that is capable of lifting 300-400 pounds, 25 feet up and 25 feet out. Rentals on transverse lifts -- also called boom lifts, horizontal boom gork-lifts, roofing lifts and shooters -- are available from national rental chains. The rental companies can be found in your local telephone book. With a four-person work crew and proper bracing of the panels, two rows of panels of a 45' dome can be placed in a day, or 5-8 hours of crane time. In most cases, total crane operating time will vary from about 10 hours for a smaller dome to 14 hours for a 48' dome.
How are the electric and plumbing lines installed in the wall of the dome shell?
Almost all of the electrical and plumbing will be contained in the interior frame walls, in the same manner as conventional housing. To install electrical wiring in the exterior dome walls, simply cut a groove in the EPS insulation and wallboard, and insert the wire. Fill the groove with spray foam and finish the area with joint compound and tape. To install electrical boxes, conduit, or plumbing pipes, cut the EPS insulation and wall board slightly larger than needed, insert the box or pipe and fill in the opening with spray expanding foam. The spray foam will harden in about half an hour, holding the box or pipe secure.
How are plumbing vent pipes installed in the dome shell?
The plumbing vent pipes can be routed sideways through the interior framing and can sometimes be joined together before they exit our dome. Where the vent pipe is to exit through the dome shell, all you need do is make a hole through the panel in the appropriate location, extend the pipe through, concrete back up against the pipe, caulk and paint. The plumbing vent pipes are sealed to our concrete dome with caulk, e.g. urethane or butyl rubber. A plumbing boot like the type used on shingled houses is not used.
What do I need to consider when searching for an energy-efficient house?
To best answer that question let's examine how most of the heating and air conditioning is lost in a house. The major loss is usually through the walls and ceiling with the amount of loss directly proportional to the combined area. Solution, minimize the surface area of the house. Domes have about 20 to 40 percent less surface-area than an equal size conventional house. This results in an equal and significant improvement in the efficiency.
Which heating and air-conditioning system is the most practical and efficient for my location?
Keep in mind that because of the superb energy efficiency of the dome the required size of your air conditioning and heating system is reduced to half that of a typical home. It is usually not economical to purchase super efficient systems because the energy savings is also reduced. The smaller sized domes can be cooled with a window air conditioner. The best heating system will vary with the area and the type of fuel that is readily available. A ventilated wood stove may provide all the needed heat for even our larger domes located to cold climates. A ground water (or water-to-air) heat pump is very efficient for both heat and cool. It uses the constant, moderate temperature of the underground earth to absorb or provide the heat instead of outside air. Besides, being more efficient than an air-to-air unit, it can efficiently produce heat when the outside temperature is below freezing.