DIY Network

Adding Drywall to Walls Cluttered chaos to sleek organization! From "DIY to the Rescue" episode DTTR-704

...and bringing in the new!

Gail and John Russell are two experienced do-it-yourselfers who have tried to make a garage into a wonderful workshop - but created a cluttered catastrophe instead! Karl Champley, Amy Devers, and the DIY crew come to the rescue to help turn this chaotic garage into the functional workshop they have always dreamed of!

First the team removes the old cabinets and paneling. Then it's time for the major step to refinishing the garage - add new walls. Karl shows John how to add drywall where the old paneling used to be. Meanwhile, Amy shows Gail how to assemble a new workbench from a modular kit. Once the walls are finished everyone pitches in to get them primed and painted.

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Materials:

hammer
pencil
drywall sheets (1/2- inch)
drywall screws (1 1/4- inch)
measuring tape
level
drill
utility knife
drywall saw
mesh tape
trowel
all purpose joint compound
mesh sandpaper
pole sander
paint

Steps:

1. Start by removing the old wall covering (figure A). This will make it easier to not only find the studs attaching the new drywall but also to avoid driving screws into the pipes and electrical wiring (figure B). Be sure to remove any nails left behind from the old wall covering (figure C). Some of the nails can be hammered down flat into the studs. The idea is to prepare a fairly smooth surface to receive the sheets of drywall.

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

2. Next mark along the floor surface to the center of each of the studs (figure D). Once the sheets of drywall are up, it will be hard to determine where the studs are located. You could use a stud-finder to find the studs once the drywall is tacked up, but in this case marking it beforehand is actually more efficient.

Before covering the studs with drywall, take measurements and note the locations of the vents and outlets throughout the room. This will give you a road map to finding them once the drywall covers them (figure E). And, that way, you can simply cut those out after the sheets are on the wall rather than cutting them out on saw horses prior to installation.

3. Once everything is measured and marked, it’s time to bring in the drywall sheets. When driving the screws into the drywall, it's important not to screw in too far! It's best to get the screw head just below the paper on the drywall (figures F & G). Driving the screws in too deep can compromise the strength of the screws holding the drywall.

Figure F

Figure G

4. With the drywall tacked to the studs along its edges, use a level to transfer the center stud marks on the floor onto the drywall (figures H & I). Now you know where to drive the screws (figure J) and, more importantly, where not to drive them!

Screw the drywall panels into place on the studs along the edges of the panels and the stud centerlines.

Figure H

Figure I

Figure J

5. Now using those measurements, mark the locations of the vents and outlets directly on the drywall (figures K & L). You can see if you didn't have these measurements, how finding these would be a guessing game on your new drywall.

Figure K

Figure L

And, then using a drywall saw, tap the tip of the saw into the drywall paper using a hammer and then cut out any holes needed for vents and outlets (figure M). Here's a tip - a quick way to get those holes cut is to score the drywall with a utility knife and then simply knock the opening out with a hammer (figures N & O).

Figure M

Figure N

Figure O

Figure P

6. Tape the seams between the drywall panels with mesh tape (figure P). This tape is designed to prevent visible cracks from appearing along the joints of the drywall sheets.

	Figure Q
	Figure R

7. Next, it's time for the mudding process. Use a trowel and an all-purpose joint compound to fill in all of the joints and holes (figure Q). An all-purpose joint compound is designed for use not only for filling the joints and holes in drywall, but also can be used as the topping or skim coat.

Even though joint compounds come pre-mixed, it's a good idea to mix it up a bit once you get the compound in the trough. This will insure that there aren't any lumps.

The edges of the sheets of drywall are recessed or beveled. The reason for this is to allow for the mudding process so that the walls will be completely flat. Apply a narrow strip of compound to the joints - just enough to cover the tape (figure R).

Also, make sure to fill the screws with the joint compound. Just partially mud the trowel for filling these since it is such a small area to cover (figures S & T). There is no need to sand between coats, just make sure it dries thoroughly before starting on the skim coat.

Figure S

Figure T

8. Now apply the skim coat using the same all-purpose compound. Make sure to apply the skim coat slightly thicker and in a wider strip (figure U). But, don't apply it to thick, because that means more compound to sand. The idea is to fill the seams and holes generously enough to make them invisible under the paint. Be sure to smooth out the skim coat with the trowel before the joint compound sets (figure V). This will make getting a smooth surface easier when sanding.

Figure U

Figure V

9. Once the skim coat dries, sand smooth using a fine grit mesh sand paper, like 120 grit, and a sanding pole (figure W). The holes in the mesh allow the dust to escape through while sanding rather than collecting on the paper. And, the pole sander gives you better leverage when sanding (figure X).

This can also be done by hand with traditional sand paper, just remember not to press too hard and to use a fine grit paper.

Figure W

Figure X

10. Once the walls are sanded smooth, dust off any excess dust from sanding. Then, apply one coat of primer, followed by one coat of color (figures Y & Z).

Figure Y

Figure Z

RESOURCES :

Diamond Life Product
a Gupta Permold Corporation Website: www.diamondlifegear.com