HOME BUILDING Index
Custom Homes
Electrical Systems & Wiring
Garages, Basements & Attics
Heating & Cooling
Home Exterior
Doors & Windows
Gutters & Drainage
Landscaping
Patios, Decks & Outside Structures
Roofing
Walls
Other

Home Interior
Inspections & Codes
Insulation and Energy Efficiency
Plumbing
Rooms
Sewerage & Septic Systems
Site Preparation
Other

BEST OF HOME BUILDING
Best Built Zone
Home IQ
Heck of a Deck
Weekend Projects
Home Renovations
Be Your Own Contractor

  • Installing a Chair Rail
  • Nathan Haun proves to a Theatre volunteer that working with power tools can be fun!
    From "DIY to the Rescue"
    episode DTTR-707


    PHOTO

    Installing a chair rail between the upper and lower wall panels creates additional interest.
    DIY to the Rescue's Nathan Haun plays a supporting roll to theatre volunteer Tara Schroeder as she adds more architectural interest by installing chair rail molding to the Tampa Theatre's green room.

    advertisement


    Materials:

    chair rail wood
    saw
    measuring tape
    pencil
    nail gun
    finishing nails for nail gun
    wood filler
    paint
    paintbrush

    Steps:

    1. First, determine the height of chair rail, measure the height of the ceiling and divide it by three. The general rule is that the chair rail should be about 1/3 of the way up from the floor (between 32" and 36" for an 8’ ceiling). You can also slide a chair up to the wall and mark where it will hit (on the wall). When rail height is determined, use your tape measure and mark the height in center of the wall. Then, use level to make a level line along the entire length of the room.

    2. Next, measure the wall according to the length to determine how many lengths of molding will be needed.

    3. At miter (or chop) saw, mark the molding for your first piece (Figure A). Starting with an door or window frame and use a square cut, or 90-degree angle, into the wall is generally the easiest place to start.

    4. Cut one piece of molding for each stretch of wall, equaling the length of the wall the molding will go on (Figure B), remembering to cut 45-degree angled cuts for the corners. If wall is longer then the length of a single piece of molding, two pieces should be mitered together. Use opposite 45-degree cuts at the ends that meet to create the miter. Make sure you position your seam on a wall stud so that the two ends can be nailed into the wood.

    NOTE: Connecting each length of molding on the wall with a 45-degree mitered edge will create a cleaner smoother joint and will be less obvious after painting.
    Photo

    Figure A

    Photo

    Figure B


    5. Once all the wood is cut, the installation can begin.

    6. Apply wood glue to the back of the chair rail and press the first piece into place.

    PHOTO

    Figure C
    7. Using a nail gun and finishing nails, secure the first piece to the wall. Repeat this step around the room until all molding is attached (Figure C). Making sure that each mitered edges and seams line up.

    8. When all chair rail molding is installed, use a nail set to recess the nail heads (if needed). Use wood filler to cover up the nail holes. And, give the molding a light sanding to smooth the joints and puttied nail holes. Also, for a smooth finished look, apply a bead of caulk on the edge of the molding where it meets the wall and in the corners and fill any gaps.

    9. Finally, using a small paintbrush, give the chair railing a fresh coat of paint to give a new and clean look.


    RESOURCES :

    For more information about The Tampa Theatre and it's restoration, visit www.tampatheatre.org .

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: