DIY Network

Repairing a Bulging Wall A homeowner learns how to repair a wall, insulate pipes and insulate behind the water heater. For more information, visit Finders Fixers. From "Finders Fixers" episode DFFX-210

Amy and Rick Robinson live in a 1950s California ranch, along with their kids and a large bulge in their bedroom wall. We found that the bulge is concentrated in one spot; the water heater is opposite the bulge; and there is carbon monoxide in the attic.

To correct their problems, Finders Fixers will help the Robinsons repair the wall, insulate the water-heater pipes and insulate the exterior wall behind the water heater.

Separate and Insulate an Outdoor Water Heater

Materials and Tools:

screwdriver
drill
garden hose
rigid foam insulation
measuring tape
utility knife

1. Turn off the water to the water heater. Next, attach a garden hose to the drain and drain all the water out of the tank. While the tank drains, unscrew any earthquake safety straps. Turn off the gas, and disconnect the water lines.

2. Unscrew the flue from the water heater, but leave the draft inducer intact.

Figure A

3. Remove the water heater: Remove the housing (cabinet), unscrew the wall anchors and pull the water heater away from the wall.

4. With the water lines exposed, measure and cut a piece of rigid foam insulation to size. This will fit between the wall and the water lines and will be completely covered by the water heater housing.

5. Slide the piece into position and push gently against the wall anchor screws (figure A).

Insulate Water Heater Pipes

Materials and Tools:

foam pipe insulation
measuring tape
utility knife
drill
screwdriver

1. Measure and cut the foam pipe insulation to size. It should be the same length as the pipe. Then cut a slit along the foam down the entire length of the pipe.

2. Once split, slip the foam insulation around the water pipes.

3. Drive the screws back into the wall anchors to secure the pipes in place. Put the water heater back in place.

4. Replace the flue, and hook up the water and gas lines. Light the pilot light.

Repair the Plaster Wall

Materials and Tools:

hammer or rubber mallet
safety glasses
painter's tape
drywall
utility knife
measuring tape
prybar
construction adhesive
masonry nails
drywall tape
drywall mud
sandpaper

Figure B

1. Break off any bulging plaster. Use a rubber mallet and be sure to wear safety glasses. Mark the edges of the area to be repaired with painter's tape.

2. Once all the big chunks of plaster are on the floor, score the edges of the intended hole by tapping them with a prybar or the claw of the hammer (figure B). This will prevent plaster from going out of the working area as you're breaking it off. Continue removing the plaster inside the painter's tape marks.

3. Use a sheet of drywall to patch the hole. Measure the hole to determine the maximum width and height measurements. Cut a rectangle of the drywall 1 inch wider and 1 inch longer than these measurements. Hold the drywall up to wall, covering the hole, and trace around it.

4. Using the prybar, score and shave the edges of the hole until the drywall fits snugly in place. Secure the drywall to the masonry with construction adhesive, gently pushing it against the masonry so it sticks.

5. Use masonry nails to hold the drywall in place while the adhesive settles. When hammering in the nails, create a little dimple that can be easily covered by the skim coat, which you'll place next. With the nails in place, tape the edges with drywall tape.

6. Cover the nail heads and tape with a first layer of drywall mud. Clean off the blade after each pass to ensure a smooth finish. Once this first layer is completely dry, sand down the wall. Apply a second layer of drywall mud. Allow it to dry and sand down again. Paint the wall to finish.