Materials for Complete Project: Two 96" 2 x 4 studs
Eight 92-5/8" 2 x 4 studs
Four 8' firring strips
Two 7' x 11-7/8" microlams
Ten 8' lattice board
100' roll of poly (4 mil.)
12'-3/4" 1/4 round
4" junction box cover plate
1-3/4 roofing nails
10' romext some couplers
FW staples for romext
Wire nuts
Unfaced insulation
Drywall (5 sheets 1/2" 4 x 8)
Mesh tape for drywall
Screws
Four 2 x 4 joist hangers and nails
Shims
5 gal. pail (premixed mud)
Paint to match
1/2" nap roller
3/8" nap roller
Walk way poly (self sticking)
Reciprocating saw blades (35 and longer)
Silicone caulk
Tape
Joint compound
Reciprocating saw
Short and long blades
Circular or miter saw
Pneumatic framing nailer
Finish nailer Notes: - Order your doors at least three weeks ahead of installation.
- Get a building permit if needed
- Cover areas in poly to limit dust to other areas. Add a fan if necessary.
- Make sure there is nothing hidden in the wall you are tearing down that could derail the project. Such as: wire chase, water pipes, electrical wires, etc.
- Locate the studs by tapping, or with a nail.
- Take a hammer and bash a hole into the wall between each of the studs that you'll be removing.
- Tear away enough of the wall so you can see inside.
- Remove trim around old door.
- Let aggression out by bashing holes in the wall.
- Rip and tear the old wallboard off.
- Remove the old feature board.
- Use a 6' blade and make a plunge cut through the wall with the reciprocating saw make a cut from top to bottom in each stud cavity.
- Remove the old crown molding (if there is any).
- After cutting through the boards, just push the wall out from one side.
- Work the boards free. The hammer does most of the work here.
- If you need to remove an electrical switch, do it now.
- Remove the electrical box, cap the wires and tuck the wire up into the rafter to get it out of the way.
- Pop up the hinges on the old door.
- Use a saw to cut through the nails holding the old frame in place.
- Take studs out that are in the way. (Are they load bearing studs? If so, add a brace if they are.)
- Use the reciprocating saw to cut through the studs that are now in the new rough opening.
- Cut them flush to the top plate.
- Use the existing stud from the old door frame as the king stud for the new rough opening.
- The king stud runs all the way from the bottom plate to the top plate
- Next to the king stud , nail in two shorter studs called 'trimmers' or jack studs. Check periodically to make sure framing is plumb.
- Measure across to make sure the opening is the right dimension.
- Nail in a new king stud top to bottom on the opposite side.
- Again, nail two trimmers to hold up the other end of the header.
- Set your first microlam header into place and nail it.
- Set the second microlam in right next to it and nail it into the first one.
- Cut through the bottom plate with a sawzall and then dig it out with a prybar.
- Now you can take away the brace.
- Now you need to reroute the wiring to the new switch box.
- Fish the wiring through the wall.
- Connect the old wiring to the new at a junction box that, by code, has to remain exposed.
- Install a few nailers in spots where you need a more solid backer to nail up the drywall.
- Fill the stud cavities with unfaced insulation.
- Put a poly vapor barrier over the whole wall so you don't need to use faced insulation.
- Lay on your first sheet of drywall.
- Put a little joint compound on and smooth out the seams.
- Apply three beads of 100-percent non-hardening silicone onto the sill plate to keep the weather out.
- Caulk behind the nail fins to create a weather-tight seal.
- Put frame into place.
- Use two nails, one in each corner will hold the frame while you make your adjustments.
- Now, to get the doors to close properly, you'll need to rack the frame, insert shims, adjust the screws, hold the frame in place until you get an even space around the doors and the frame -- called the "reveal".
- Only when the doors are working do you then want to mail the fins to the wall.
- Once the door is in and secured in its final position, then lay on the second layer of drywall to match the wall thickness.
- Put up the trim around door.
- Use the finish nailer to sink the nails.
- Spackle the nail holes.
- Paint.
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