Susan Khalje simplifies the technique for making a bellows pocket, a type of expandable pocket that is great for pursuits that require two free hands. She shows it as an attachment to a pair of cargo shorts (figure A), but it can work just as well on many other types of garments.
Materials:
2-1/4 yards 45" cotton
10" hook-and-loop tape
Drawstring
2 cord stops
Pattern paper
Quilting ruler
Pencil and eraser
Tracing paper
Tracing wheel
Simplicity pattern
Sewing Notions: Scissors, thread, heavy thread, hand-sewing needles, Pins, etc.
Steps: - On dotted pattern paper, draw a 5" square using a ruler (figure B). The top line of the square should extend 3" past the square on both sides.
- On the two sides and bottom of the square, draw lines 1 1/2 inches to the outside (these new lines should NOT intersect) (figure C).
- Draw a line that makes a 45-degree angle from the bottom of the original square . Fold the dotted pattern paper along a 45-degree diagonal, using the dots to guide you (figure D). Trace the line for about 2" in either direction of the bottom corner of the original square (figure E). Repeat for the other side, but make the second line a mirror image of the first (figure F).
- Draw a third set of lines 1-1/2" from the second set (sides and bottom). Fold the pattern paper up on the middle line and trace the diagonal lines through (figure G). Unfold the paper and retrace the new lines to the front of the paper (figure H).
- Add 1/2" seam allowance all around and erase any extraneous lines. Remember to fold and trace the last segment of diagonal into the seam allowance to create the miter (figure I).
- Draw a facing pattern 2" long and as wide as the pocket at the top (including seam allowance) (figure J).
- Draft the flap (figure K): The outer flap will be 1/4" wider than the pocket , and 1/3 its height (fold the pocket into thirds to easily find this measurement). Mark the center of the flap and extend the point 1/2" (figure L). Connect the new center to the outside lines to form the lower flap shape. Add 1/2" seam allowance all around (figure M). Retrace this pattern and shave 1/8" off the sides of the flap for the flap lining pattern.
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