By Susan Khalje
DIY-Do It Yourself Network Although almost all dressmakers are familiar with the concept of shoulder pads, few are as familiar with sleeve heads -- a complementary and equally important part of the shoulder/sleeve equation. A shoulder pad counteracts the downward slope of the shoulders, evens up differing shoulders, flatters the silhouette as it broadens the shoulder area and helps give a sturdy basis from which to attach a sleeve. One thing it does not do, however, is fill out the top area of the sleeve, where, more often than not, a natural indentation forms, especially if the shoulder pad is at all thick. A raglan shoulder pad helps the situation somewhat, and there's always the temptation to shove the shoulder pad into the top of the sleeve, but neither is the perfect solution. What's needed is a sleeve head, a bit of padding and support at the top of the sleeve. It fills out the area between the top of the arm and the top of the sleeve -- an area which unless otherwise filled out, is hollow. Sleeve heads can be purchased at most large fabric stores, but they can also be made. A sleeve head can be as simple as a layer of fabric which echoes the shape of the sleeve cap area (it's especially useful when there are pleats or gathers in the sleeve cap area that need to be supported), or it can be more elaborate: a bias strip of fabric, folded and padded out with flannel or lambs wool. In any event, you'll need to tailor the sleeve head fabric to your garment's fabric -- tulle, or soft netting, is often ideal for filling out gathers and pleats in lightweight sleeves (silk doupioni or taffeta, for example), while a lambs wool filled muslin sleeve head works well with a wool jacket. To make a filled sleeve head, cut two bias strips of fabric approximately 8 inches long, by 2 to 3 inches wide. Fold them in half so that one long edge is slightly wider than the other. Round the ends, then stitch the layers together by hand or machine. The sleeve head is placed between the seam allowance and the top of the sleeve. The folded edge is placed along the armscye, (the curved inset in the body of a garment into which the sleeve cap is sewn) with the wide side of the sleeve lead against the sleeve. Place it from notch to notch, with slightly more of the sleeve head on the back of the sleeve than on the front. Stitch it gently in place by hand. It will stay in the garment when it's cleaned, so be sure your fabrics are compatible. (Susan Khalje is an author and host of DIY-Do It Yourself Network "Sew Much More" which airs weekdays at 2:00 P.M. ET. Contact her at skhalje@aol.com or Box 51 Long Green, MD 21092. For more information, visit www.SusanKhalje.com or www.diynet.com.)
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