Performance Enhancements In this segment, Chris Chianelli shows how to "hop-up" -- or add performance enhancements -- to the Dodge Viper mini-Z from Kyosho (TM ). He demonstrates how to install ball bearing wheels, add a light kit and install a 3-point differential shock system.
Materials: Mini Z-Racer
4 AAA Alkaline batteries (for car)
8 AA Alkaline batteries (for transmitter)
Performance parts: ball bearing wheels, exhaust pipe, 3-way shock system
CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
Jeweler's screwdriver set
Socket-style hobby wrench
Needle-nose pliers Light wiring kit (available at hobby stores)
Cordless drill
Double-sided tape
Important: This demonstration shows basic instructions for assembly and operation of this particular model of Z-racer. There are variations in assembly for each particular model. Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions that come with your racer, whether it is this particular model or another. Additional information about assembly as well as running, troubleshooting and fine-tuning the model can be found in the manufacturer's instructions.
Steps: Performance Wheels - One of the most advantageous performance enhancements for a mini Z-racer is the addition of ball-bearing wheels (figure A).
- The bearing wheel-mechanisms (figure B) offer less rolling resistance than ordinary, stock wheels. Aside from increasing speed capabilities, they help lengthen the duration of battery life.
- With the old wheel removed, simply slip the new wheel onto the axle and tighten down the center-nut using a small socket wrench (figure C). Adjust the nut for the proper amount of play and spin.
Three-Shock Rear Suspension - To enhance the suspension on the Z-racer, a tri-shock system is added. Before adding the shocks, we added a rear engine pod (to accommodate a hop-up motor) and a modified rear axle (figure D). We also opted to add a "performance exhaust." The exhaust pipe is actually just cosmetic; it offers no actual performance advantage.
- To attach the modified suspension system, begin by positioning the top, main bracket (figure E).
- Secure the top bracket using two of the three mounting screws provided (figure F). Don't attach the third screw yet.
- The third screw serves to help secure the bracket as well as to hold the radio-receiver antenna post (figure G).
- Position the antenna according to the manufacturer's instructions, and secure it, along with the third mounting point of the bracket, using the third mounting screw (figure H).
- Tighten all three mounting screws down securely, but avoid over-tightening.
- The molded body of the car has a small hole in the rear section so that the body can slip down over the mounted antenna (figure I). The installation of the suspension system is completed after installation of the light kit.
Headlight and Tail-Light Kit - The working running-lights we installed on the Viper come as a kit. Before the lights themselves can be installed, an extra set of wires must be installed where the wires feed from the electronic controller to the motor.
- The lights themselves mount inside the car body on the underneath side of the body (figure J). Follow the instructions that come with the kit for positioning and mounting the electronics for the light system. In our case, the electronics were secured to the underside of the molded body using double-sided tape.
- With the electronics in place, installation of the lights is a simple matter of placing the light diodes in pre-drilled holes in the body and gluing them in place using medium-viscosity CA (cyanoacrylate) glue (figure K).
- Repeat the gluing process with each of the four lights.
Completion of Upgrade - With the antenna and light kit installed, the suspension upgrade can be completed. Secure any remaining mounting screws on the main bracket.
- The two main rear-shocks (figure L) are mounted first, followed by the third center-shock. The shocks are made with cup-and-ball connectors on either end, and they fasten by simply snapping in place.
- Position the shock connectors according to the manufacturer's instructions, and snap them secure using needle-nose pliers (figure M).
- With the suspension complete, the light kit can be connected to the power-supply wires (figure N) that were installed earlier.
- Once the lights are connected, simply snap the body down onto the chassis (making sure that the antenna passes through its opening in the body), and the racer is complete and ready to race (figure O).
In the segment that follows, Chris shows how you can build a portable race track in less than 15 minutes.
RESOURCES :
RC Modeler magazine
RC Modeler magazine
Sierra Madre, CA 91025
Fax: 626-355-1476
Website: www.rcmagazine.com
Viper mini Z-racer by Kyosho
Great Planes Model Distributors
Website: www.greatplanes.com
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