DIY Network

Build Your Wine Cellar Complete Instructions (w/Illustrations)

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Below are the construction guidelines for building your own wine cellar. This version has downloadable .pdf template files, but there are no images. For more information— and complete step-by-step instruction—on DIY's Build Your Wine Cellar workshop and to peruse each episode, visit the episode archive.

Click here to download Illustrations #1 - #4 listed in the instructions.

Click here to download Illustrations #5 - #7 listed in the instructions.

Materials:

Four 48" x 96" pieces of 1/2" drywall
Twenty-four 2" x 4" x 96" studs
Six 1" x 3" baseboard molding
Nine 48" x 96" CDX sheets of 1/2" plywood
4 R-13 insulation w/vapor barrier
2 R-19 insulation w/vapor barrier
One 50' roll of 6-millimeter poly-plastic sheeting
1 dry bag of quick-set tile mortar
1 dry bag of sanded grout
One 250-count 8d common nails
One 500-count 1-1/4" drywall screws
One 250-count 2" drywall screws
One 250-count 3" drywall screws
18 gauge galvanized brads (if you go with shiplap wall covering)
1 dry bag of drywall mud
1 roll of drywall seam tape
2 gallons of primer
2 gallons of paint

Special Order Items:

2 boxes of 6" x 6" ceramic tile (ordered to size)
8 wine racks (custom ordered to size)
1 exterior-grade door, insulated, double-pane (ordered to size)
1 cooling unit (WhisperKool Model 1600 was used for this particular project)
1 lighting fixture

Guidelines to follow for proper wine cellar construction

1. If the room is on a concrete slab:
   • The floor must be as level as possible.
     
   • The concrete floor must be treated with waterproof sealer.

2. Walls need to be constructed of 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 studs. All corners must be squared using the 3-4-5 method to square walls. (See Illustration #1.)

3. Walls will need 2 x 6 nailers between studs, below top plate and above sill plate to anchor racking. (This step not needed if using plywood sheeting. See # 13 below.)

4. There are to be NO electrical outlets or switches where racks are to be installed. Exceptions are listed below:
   • Existing wall with electrical outlets and switches will be eliminated on a case-by-case basis. As a last resort, switch will be placed on outside wall next to entry door. Preferably, the customer should contact their electrical contractor to move/install any outlets and switches.

   • If installing Lighting for High-Reveal racking, Archway, etc. the final drawing indicating ultimate placement of electrical outlets must be complete prior to installation of electrical outlets.

   • If installing refrigeration systems such as Breezaire, the final drawing indicating ultimate placement of refrigeration unit and electrical outlets must be complete prior to installation of electrical outlets.

   • If installing Split Refrigeration System, the final drawing must indicate the ultimate placement of evaporator and thermostat.

   • If installing Split Air Handler System, the final drawing must indicate the ultimate placement of supply air duct, return air duct and thermostat

5. Any recessed "can lighting" must be thermally fused so the insulation and vapor barrier can be wrapped around can lighting."

6. All lighting must be a minimum of 16" at can light cover from wall for single deep racking. And a minimum of 28" at can light cover for double deep racking. (See Illustration #2.)

7. All finished soffits for single deep racking without lighting must be a minimum of 16". And double deep racking without lighting must be a minimum of 28". (See Illustration #3.)

8. All finished soffits for single deep racking with lighting must be a minimum of 16" + diameter of can light cover + 2". Double deep racking with lighting must be a minimum of 28" + diameter of can light cover + 2". (See Illustration #4.)

9. All finished soffits for radius racking. (See Illustration #5.)

10. All walls and ceilings must have a 6-mil. minimum vapor barrier "on the warm side" of the walls and ceilings.

11. All walls must be insulated with a minimum of R-13 regardless of existing conditions.

12. All ceilings must be insulated with a minimum of R-19 regardless of existing conditions.

13. Ideally, 1/2" plywood sheeting will be secured to all walls after electrical rough-in and insulation to anchor racking. (This step not needed if using nailers between studs. See Illustration #3.)

14. Install moisture resistant drywall.
    • Drywall must be installed a maximum 1/8" above sub-flooring.

    • Drywall to be finished and painted (exterior primer and paint) in its entirety with no unfinished areas. This includes areas normally left unpainted where baseboards would have been placed.

15. Tile floor must be snug to finished drywall and 3/16" to 5/16" maximum space for wood floors.

16. No "baseboard" or "toe-kick" molding to be installed to walls. (Baseboard and toe-kick will be installed to the racking.)

17. Door, sidelights and windows must be exterior grade.
    • Door must have full-weather seal around perimeter and sweep.

    • Doors with glass must have thermopane glass.

    • All must be insulated between jamb and studs.

    • Existing exterior windows must be insulated and covered. Glass allows light to enter the cellar, which is detrimental to proper wine storage.

    • If you have exterior windows that you want to keep in the cellar, they must be double-insulated glass and well-insulated and caulked around frame.

18. Remove existing whole-house HVAC vents in the room. Existing HVAC should be permanently sealed. Customer should contact their HVAC contractor for advice.

19. Measurements of cellar walls and finish floor to ceiling height for custom racking must be exact. All custom racking are built to your measurements and cannot be returned. So double-check your measurements.
    • Wall width should be measured at the bottom, center and top and provide the smallest measurement. Identified each wall. (A wall, B wall, C wall, D wall, etc. See Illustration #6.)

    • Ceiling height should be measured in all corners and center of all walls and provide the minimum and maximum measurements. If your measurements vary more than 1" you should consider using a platform base to level up your racks properly and have your crown molding fit tight to ceiling for a better look. (See Illustration #6.)

    • Any walls that bump out, or in to form a pocket should be measured from corner bead to corner bead (outside the pocket) and wall to wall (inside pocket) using the smallest measurement. (See Illustration #7.)

    • Racking should stop 2" to 3" from door casing so racking won't interfere with door casing (3-1/2" door casing).

    • Racking should stop 2" to 3" from existing light switch next to door that could not be removed.

    • Racking should stop 2" to 3" from existing thermostat.

20. Be sure to follow the professional factory direct installation guide.

Note: Depending on the size of the room, this project should take from 3 to 5 days!