Project by Rebecca Krahula.The most common choices of metal to find range from galvanized tin, tin, copper, brass, or aluminum. A golden tone, such as brass, will cause a warm amber illumination from behind. Those with a silver tone, such as tin, cast a light from behind that accentuates highlights and brightens darks. Also consider the thickness or gauge of the metal. It needs to be thin enough to cut with metal shears, yet thick enough not to bend out of shape when used. For this project we used galvanized step plates from the hardware store and Fiskars metal shears.
Materials:
Bearing Beads rubber stamps
galvanized step plates*
Houston Art 400-grit sanding disc
rubbing alcohol
metal file
paper towels
parchment paper
Pebeo Vitrea 160 gloss medium glass paint
Houston Art Athena series 7000 size 16 soft brush
fid** or bone folder
Dick Blick metal hole punch
Ancient Page stamp pad
oven for curing metal parts
flat bottom bowl
Houston Art Super Film sanding disc
Houston Art Mona Lisa Clear Cote spray sealer
Artistic Wire 18-gauge nontarnish silver and gold wire
roundnose pliers
wire cutters
8mm jump rings
Fire Mountain Gems charms
beaded chain
Fiskars metal shears
*Step plates are found in the roofing department of your local hardware store.
**Fids are found with stained glass supplies.
Creating the Bracelet Pieces1. Sand metal in one direction to remove any oxidization, clear coatings meant to prevent oxidization, and scratches or gauges.
2. Wipe the metal down with a paper towel dampened with the alcohol to remove any oils on the tin. Dry.
3. Use the Ancient Page stamp pad to ink and stamp the charm and tag shapes of your choice (figure A). Leave a small amount of room between each for easier cutting. Note: If you do not have the charm stamp set, you can draw a template on card stock and cut it out. Use the template to trace the shape onto the metal with a permanent marker. Heat set with a heat gun or place for 3 minutes in a 300 F degree oven. Let cool.
4. Cut out your charms and or tags.
5. File the edges of the tags and charms. Round off any corners for safety and comfort in use.
6. Use your stamp pad to stamp a template on scrap paper. Cut out and use the template to decide where you want your hole in the bracelet pieces. You will need one template for every shape cut out. If you used a paper template to create your shapes, use this to plan for the hole placement (figure B). When decided, punch the hole out of the paper template first.
7. Use the template to mark the hole on each metal piece, and use your metal punch to punch the holes out of each tag and/or charm (figure C).
8. Sand the front and back of each piece with the 400-grit sanding discs. Remember to sand in one direction only.
9. Dampen a paper towel with the alcohol and wipe the area that is to be transferred onto. This removes all oils and debris from sanding, so from now on, try not to touch the area you are transferring onto. Wipe or blow dry and set on a piece of parchment paper.
10. Stir the Vitrea 160 glass medium slowly with a skewer, taking care not to mix in a lot of air bubbles. Apply the gloss medium with the watercolor brush 1/8-inch thick in a vertical direction, popping any air bubbles with your brush.
11. Next go over the area in a horizontal direction insuring a solid coverage (figure D).
12. Place the transfer face down in position on the gloss medium (figure E). Use your fid or bone folder and, starting in the center, rub across the metal to each of the edges. Keep your hands and tools clean. If you get medium on them, use the damp cloth to remove it; dry with a paper towel and return to cover any area left on the transfer. Take time to cover the whole area you are transferring on. This step will remove air bubbles, ensure contact between the transfer and metal, and cause the excess medium to squeeze out the edges. Remove any excess medium with a paper towel.
13. Before curing the metal, the gloss medium must be dry. Either set the piece aside to dry for 24 hours or dry with a hair dryer set on low. When dry, bake at 325 F degrees for 25 minutes on middle rack of oven to cure.
14. Soak the metal transfer side down in water for a few minutes (figure F). Remove and use a clean, damp, lint-free cloth in a circular motion to remove the paper and lint from the transfer.
15. Wet-sand the piece in a flat-bottom bowl with a Super Film sanding disk micro sanding pad; it won't fall apart. Lightly sand in a circular motion to remove the rest of the lint (figure G). Let dry.
16. If you sanded away some of your transfer by accident or had a small mark left from an air bubble, use a permanent marker to add color and hide the flaw.
17. At some point before your project is finished, remember to seal your transfer with Clear Cote spray to protect it from scratching.
Creating the Bracelet1. Cut nontarnish 18-gauge wire into 1-1/4-inch pieces and use round-nose pliers to bend into an "S" hook (figure H).
2. Connect bracelet pieces with these hooks.
3. Create a clasp from a 2-1/2-inch piece of wire formed into an "S" hook (figure I).
4. Attach an 8mm jump ring into the single holes for the clasps on the first and last bracelet section. The clasp you created will slide into these to create your bracelet.