| The Three Ways to Repair Lawns: Seed, Sod and Plugs |
From "Lawn-Care Workshop"
episode LWN-102 |
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Frank McDonough of the Los Angeles County Arboretum explains the three ways to repair a lawn. Seeding over bare spots is the most common -- and sometimes the trickiest -- method used to repair lawns. First pick up some seed at your local garden center or nursery. Although it isn't always necessary to match the variety currently growing in your lawn, try to select a variety that is similar in color or texture. - Prepare the damaged area by removing all dead grass and 1" to 2" of soil 3/4" past the edge of the dead grass.
- Water the area, then amend the soil by working in either compost, leaf mold or fine-milled peat moss to a depth of 3" to 5". Be sure to add enough to make up for the soil you removed (if the area is large, you may want to roll it with a half -filled water roller).
- Sprinkle the seed over the spot according to the rate on the box (figure A ). Many seed boxes have examples of what the right density of seed will look like; if yours doesn't, be careful not to seed too densely. It's better for seed to be a little too thin than too thick.
- Cover the seed with a thin (1/4" to 1/3") layer of your amendment and tamp the soil. If the patch is large, you may want to roll it again with a water-filled roller.
- Water the area with a fine-mist nozzle. Keep the area moist until the grass emerges, then gradually back off your watering over the next week or two.
Note: - You may need to lengthen the last step if you live in a hot, desert climate.
Repairing with sod gives you quick results but takes a little more care. - Estimate the area of the spot to be repaired and purchase about a third more than that amount of the same or similar variety of sod.
- Repeat steps 1 and 2 of the first procedure, with these variations:
- Remove the grass so that the prepared area forms a square.
- Remember to level the amendment to 1" lower than soil level (depending on the thickness of the soil in your sod).
- Cut the edges of the area straight.
- Compact the amended area by tamping with a board or rolling it with a half -filled water roller.
- Using a sharp knife, cut the sod to fit the area (this can be tricky).
- Fit the sod into the area and "knit" the edges together by squeezing them toward each other with your hands.
- Roll the sod with a half-filled water roller so it makes good contact with the soil, and then water well. Keep the sod moist for at least two weeks afterward.
Sod coring, or plugging, which is essentially the lawn version of a hair transplant, works well only with spreading grasses such as Bermuda or Saint Augustine. - Prep the area as for seed, then cut 2" by 2" by 1" plugs of grass from an area of healthy lawn and transplant them (figure B) to the prepared area about 6" to 12" apart (4" to 6" works best for slower-growing grasses, 4" to 12" for St. Augustine grass).
- Tamp them down with your foot, then keep them moist until you see them start to spread.
Regarding fertilization for reseeded areas, it's best to wait until your next regularly scheduled fertilization. Applying fertilizer during or shortly after the patch process can burn the roots of newly transplanted plugs and sod, as well as seedling grass plants. Tip: - Walk on your lawn: if the grass doesn't spring back up, or if you can see your footprints, it needs water.
Web site resources for repairing lawns: Seeding a Lawn Plugging and Sprigging a Lawn
GUESTS :
Frank McDonough
E-mail: frank.mcdonough@arboretum.org
Website: www.arboretum.org
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