HOME IMPROVEMENT Index
Appliances
Basement
Bathrooms
Bedrooms
Cleaning
Contractors
Doors
Driveways & Paths
Duct Tape
Electrical Systems
Family Room
Fences & Gates
Fireplace
Floor Coverings
Furniture
Handles, Knobs & Hinges
Help on the Homefront
Home Energy Efficiency
Home Office
Homeowner in Process
House Exterior
Indoor Pests
Kitchens
Lighting
Outdoor Equipment
Outdoor Structures
Painting
Plumbing
Safety
Sports-Related Additions
Staining
Stairs
Storage
Tools
Adhesives & Sealants
Chisels & Planes
Clamps & Vises
Drills
Hammers
Hardware & Accessories
Knives & Blades
Measuring
Metalworking
Power Tools
Sanders & Scrapers
Saws
Screwdrivers
Storing & Organizing
Woodworking
Wrenches & Pliers
Other

Utility Room
Walls & Ceilings
Windows

BEST OF
HOME IMPROVEMENT
Flooring
Decks
Mold Quiz
Home Safety
Tiling Techniques
Lighting Solutions
Weekend Projects
DIY to the Rescue
Home Renovations
Bathroom Makeover
Kitchen Renovations
Ultimate Media Room
Be Your Own Contractor

SPONSOR LINKS

  • Hammers
  • From "DIY Home Repair & Remodeling"
    episode DIR-165
    advertisement

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure A

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure B

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure C

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure D

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure E

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure F

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure G

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure H

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure I

    Click here to view a larger image.

    If you're in a position where you can't hold the nail while you start it into the wood, wedge the nail between the claw and the handle, with the head of the nail butted against the handle, and drive it that way. Then pull the hammer away and continue driving the nail.

    Click here to view a larger image.

    To start small nails without smashing your fingers, try poking them through a stiff piece of paper. Use the paper to hold the nail steady, then rip it off when the nail is secure.

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure J

    Click here to view a larger image.

    You can add a keyless chuck to a keyed-chuck drill. The attachment typically costs about $20 and requires bits with special shafts.

    A wide assortment of hammers is available. Most are designed for specialized tasks.

    The shingling hammer (figure A) is a common roofing tool. It has a waffled head and a blade on the back. It also has holes in the rear that are based on a measuring system used in roofing.

    A mason's hammer (figure B) has a hammer end and a chisel end. It's designed for breaking and shaping bricks.

    A dry-wall hammer (figure C) is similar to a roofing hammer. It has a notched end to remove nails. The waffled head is wide to reduce the likelihood of breaking through dry-wall paper. It's good for dimpling the paper in preparation for applying joint compound.

    If you need a heavy-duty hammer for pounding stakes into the ground, a hand sledge (figure D) is a good choice.

    Lots of older tool sets include a ball-peen hammer (figure E), typically used for working metal.

    A tack hammer (figure F) is used for securing upholstery.

    Rubber mallets (figure G) are good for sensitive projects because they're not as likely to create dents.

    If you're building walls, you need a framing hammer (figure H), which has a waffled head and weighs about 22 ounces.

    Most homeowners have a basic claw hammer (figure I), with a curved claw for removing nails. These hammers are available with either wood or fiberglass handles. Wood handles work well, but fiberglass tends to last longer.

    Drills are also important for the home workshop. Keep the following tips in mind when choosing one:

    A hammer drill looks a lot like a standard drill, but it works better for drilling through masonry. When the drill is switched to the hammer setting, it vibrates back and forth for a jackhammer effect.

    A smaller drill usually has a 3/8" chuck (the part of the drill that holds the bit). This means the largest bit it can hold is 3/8" in diameter. A larger drill can usually handle bits as large as 1/2" in diameter.

    Most older drills require keys to loosen and tighten the chuck around the bit. Some newer drills offer a keyless chuck option (figure J) that allows users to loosen or tighten the chuck by twisting it.


  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: