| Basic Woodworking Tools |
From "Ask DIY"
episode ADI-109 |
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Q: We just moved, and for the first time I actually have a garage large enough for me to set up a modest woodworking shop in one corner. What tools would you recommend that I get first? A: (Bruce Johnson, Ask DIY Woodworking expert) Setting up a workshop is good for the body and the brain, not to mention good for making lots of cool stuff for your house. The first thing I recommend for a workshop is a solid workbench. You can make your own from a sheet of plywood and some two-by-fours, but I now prefer the professional workbenches that cost around a hundred dollars. What's particularly nice about them are the accessories, such as the built-in vise. It's so useful it's almost like having an extra pair of hands. They also come with a tool tray, so you can set your tools down in the middle of a project without having to worry about knocking them to the floor when you swing the wood around. With most projects, one of the first challenges is cutting the wood. Before you select the tools you'll want, ask yourself, "Can I do it by hand?" If so, you'll want two types of saw, a rip saw and a back saw (figure A). A back saw has more teeth per inch and is ideal for making neat, shallow cuts. If you want to go with power, however, consider getting a table saw (figure B). It provides a flat, stable surface, and you can adjust its blade for height or for cutting bevels. If you want to start making your own picture frames, you'll need a table saw. Make sure you get one with a fence that's easy to adjust. Safety alert: Always wear safety glasses when you work on a table saw. That's so important that you should designate a pair of safety glasses that can stay on the table saw, so you'll always have them on hand. Also use a push stick (figure C) with a table saw to protect your fingers. Two other saws you may want to consider are a circular saw and a saber saw (figure D). A circular saw is really designed more for carpentry than woodworking, but a saber saw can save you the cost of a band saw -- provided you have a sturdy workbench where you can clamp your wood while you use the saber saw. As for drills, the best basic choice is a portable, battery-operated power drill (figure E). It can drill holes, and you can also change the tip and use it as an electric screwdriver. The only drawback is that you'll need a battery-charger and two batteries, one to keep in the drill, the other to keep in the charger. You do, however, save the cost and inconvenience of a drop cord. Once your wood is cut, you'll need to sand it. You can sand by hand with sandpaper, but that's going to get old fast. If you want to try it, at least get a hard rubber sanding block. To use it, tear your sandpaper into strips the same width as the block and attach it to the block by the pointed teeth. I keep a couple of sanding blocks around for small sanding jobs, but I reach for an electric palm sander (figure F) for larger projects. Lightweight and inexpensive, this sander can make sanding almost fun. If you think more power will save more time, reconsider before reaching for a belt sander. Even with a medium-grit of sandpaper, a belt sander will remove a lot of wood very quickly -- sometimes too quickly. I don't use a belt sander as much as I do a palm sander. If you can afford to, buy both. If not, start with a palm sander. More questions for Bruce: Q: What's the difference between a cheaper table saw blade and the more expensive kind? A: I know the temptation to buy a cheap blade, but here's the problem: A cheap blade requires your motor to work that much harder to cut through the wood. I recommend that you spend the extra money to get a carbide-tip blade (figure G). You'll get cleaner cuts, and your table-saw motor will last longer. Q: Whenever I'm using my saber saw, I find that the blade bends at an angle rather than cutting straight up and down. Am I doing something wrong? A: Chances are you're using a cheap blade. Often the blade that comes with the saw isn't as good as what you can buy off the shelf. Spend a little more money on a new blade that won't bend. Q: I never feel quite confident that I'm using the right grit of sandpaper for each project. Are there any guidelines I should follow? A: The coarsest sandpapers have two digits, and you should use them when you want to remove a lot of wood quickly. If you just want to remove a little wood or shallow scratches, move up to the 100 series of sandpaper. For your final sanding, or sanding between coats of finish, step up to the 200 series. Web site resources for Woodworking Tools: Tool Survey from Woodworker's Central.com Tool Cleaning from The Best Things.com A Guide to Building Your Workshop's Tool Collection from Wood Zone.com Books: The Insider's Guide to Buying Tools
By Editors of Popular Woodworking Books (2000)
ISBN: 1558705422
F&W Publications
1507 Dana Ave.
Cincinnati, OH 45207
Phone: 513-531-2690
How to Use and Care for Your Woodworking Tools
By Alan Bridgewater
ISBN: 0811727947
Stackpole Books (1998)
5067 Ritter Rd.
Mechanicsburg, PA 17055
Customer Service Phone: 800-732-3669
Woodworker's Tool Guide: Getting the Most From Your Hand Tools, Power Tools & Accessories
By David Day
ISBN: 0806970618
Sterling Publishing Company Inc.
387 Park Avenue South
New York, NY 10016
Phone: 212-532-7160
Fax: 212-213-2495
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