DIY Network

Repairing Loose Nails and Damaged Corners/Repairing a Dent or Gouge in Drywall From "Complete Fix-It" episode CFI-110

advertisement

Note: Illustration A, Illustration B, Illustration C, Illustration D, Illustration E available using

Hiding a popped nail

1. Drive 1-1/4-inch drywall screws about 2 inches above and below the popped nail, dimpling the drywall surface without tearing it.
   
   
2. With a nail set and hammer, sink the nail about 1/16 inch below the drywall surface (illustration A, click above to view).
   
   
3. To check that the nailheads and screwheads are countersunk properly, run a putty knife over them; a clicking sound indicates that they need to be driven in farther.
   
   
4. Cover the nail and the screws with joint compound and let dry.
   
   
5. Apply a second coat of compound over a slightly larger area, let it dry, then sand with fine-grit sandpaper on a sanding block.
   

1. If the metal corner bead has been damaged, reseat it with 1 5/8 inch drywall screws and flatten any protruding bends with a metal file.
   
   
2. Run a tape knife along the surface to make sure no portion of the corner bead protrudes; knock down any high spots. Roughen the damaged surface on each side of the corner with coarse sandpaper, then brush clean and dampen.
   
   
3. Holding a flat piece of wood against one side of the corner, apply joint compound to the other (illustration B, click above to view). Reverse sides and repeat, taking care not to dent the fresh joint compound.
   
   
4. Scrape off excess compound, and let the area dry completely.
   
   
5. Repeat this step as required, using 100-grit sandpaper on a sanding block to smooth the patch after each coat.
   

1. Use a utility knife to trim off any loose, frayed, or bunched paper around the damaged area of drywall. Keep your free hand away from the blade or, if you must use both hands, wear work gloves for protection.
   
   
2. To ensure a firm grip for the filler, roughen the inside edges of the damaged drywall with coarse sandpaper (illustration C, click above to view). Any surface paper in the damaged area should be well scuffed. Brush away any loose particles.
   

1. Dampen the sanded area with a moist sponge to limit shrinkage of the patching material.
   
   
2. Pack spackling or joint compound into the damaged area with a flexible 2-inch knife (illustration D, click above to view), working from the center to the outside edges, until the patch is a little higher than the undamaged surface. Then use a larger knife -- one that spans the repair area -- to scrape across the undamaged surface in broad, smooth passes, scraping off excess compound.
   

1. Most fillers shrink as they dry, leaving cracks or depressions that require a second coat. To help this application adhere, lightly score the surface of the first coat before it dries, using the tip of the knife blade. Let the repair dry overnight.
   
   
2. Apply a second coat, again using a knife with a blade wide enough to cover the repair in one pass (illustration E, click above to view). It may take several coats to get the patch perfectly smooth and level with the surrounding surface. Once the final coat is dry, smooth the patch with medium-grit sandpaper on a sanding block and then brush off. Seal the repair with primer.
   

Illustrations (Copyright) Time-Life Books 2000.

RESOURCES :

HGTV's Complete Fix-It
Author: HGTV