| Installing a Glass Block Window: Build New Frames and Set Glass Blocks |
From "Weekend Remodeling"
episode WKR-112 |
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Prep Work, Remove Window Sill and Cut Out Interior Side Holes = 3 hours
Remove Old Window and Cut Out Side Windows = 4 hours
Build New Frames and Set Glass Blocks = 5 hours
Exterior and Interior Trim = 4 hours
Total time spent on project = 16 hours over 2-1/2 days
On a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the hardest, this project is a level 3. We spent approximately $600 for supplies; a contractor would charge around $1,500. Materials: Scaffolding (rented)
Utility knife
Flat pry bar
Hammer
Level
Key hole saw
Speed square
Cats paw
2 x 4's
2-1/2" wood screws
1 x 6 pine
2-1/2" finish nails
Glass blocks
Framing for glass blocks
Mortar for glass blocks
Spacers
White or clear silicone sealant
Panel anchors
Trowel
Mortar pan
Drill, driver and bits
Tin snips
Measuring tape
2-1/4" case molding
Caulk and caulking gun
Paint and brushes - You need to determine the proper measurements in order to allow the space required for the blocks, mortar joints, expansion foam and the finish trim.
- Cut 2 x 4's to the proper size and place them in the opening for the side windows and secure them to the wall with 2-1/2" wood screws (figure A).
- Use the lines that you drew on the sheeting to make sure the blocking is level and plumb as you put each piece in.
- Take the measurements of your rough frame and build the interior finish trim out of 1 x 6 pine. Slide it into the opening of the 2 x 4 frame , making sure it is flush to the outside wall and that it fits like a glove (figure B). Nail it in place using 2-1/2" finish nails.
- One window that was cut out had a 2 x 4 stud at the top and bottom, so we cut it out at the top and bottom of the opening (figure C). It isn't a support for the wall or window, it is there to attach the drywall to, so you aren't endangering the structure of the wall. Insert the 2 x 4 blocking and secure it in the hole and insert the pine trim and nail it in place.
Expert Tip: If you want to change the size of your rough opening, check the inside of the wall for electrical wires before making any modifications and make sure you don't cut through low bearing studs. - Use the same procedure on the larger window. There is already a full frame around it, but you have to build it up to the proper dimensions. The glass blocks are 8 inches tall and you want the grout lines on the center window to match the smaller side windows. You need to add blocking to the top, but you have to add more blocking to the bottom to get the grout joints on all the windows to line up.
- Measure and build another finished trim insert out of pine and set it into place -- keeping it flush to the outside, and then nail it in place.
- After all of the finish trim is in place, prime the bottom sill. This will keep the wood from absorbing the moisture of the mortar when you go to set the glass block.
- Place a bed of glass block mortar on the window sill and insert spacers into the grout (figure D). Set the blocks on one at a time. The blocks are 4 inches thick. Do not butt the blocks up to the sides of the frame because you need a small amount of room for the expansion foam up the sides and across the top.
- As one block goes in, mud one side of the block with mortar and set it beside the previous block. Press the block into the mortar until it is resting on the spacers (figure E).
Expert Tip: The plastic spacers for glass block are not absolutely necessary. But, if you are a first timer, they will help you maintain even mortar joint throughout the job. - After the first row is installed, insert the expansion foam between the block and the pine trim. Cut the foam off at the top of the block (figure F).
- Place mortar on the top of the first row of blocks. Bend a metal panel anchor at a 90-degree angle and press it into the mortar (figure G) . Place the panel anchors every 3 rows, beginning with the first row. Attach it to the side of the trim with 1-1/2 inch screws.
- Begin the second row of blocks, inserting the spacers and setting the blocks in place just as before. Butter one side and snug it up to a block. Repeat the pattern from the first row.
Expert Tip: Glass blocks don't absorb moisture like regular bricks, so the mortar needs to be about the consistency of putty. - A 4-inch wide block was placed in the center because it prevents having to drastically resize the original window and it complements the side windows (figure H).
- Place the expansion foam all the way up the sides and insert the panel anchors where required.
- When you get to the top you will need someone to help on the outside. Start the row out like the rest of the rows and then go to the opposite end and the set the blocks coming back toward the center. You need to meet in the middle for the final block to go in properly.
- Insert expansion foam at the top block. The side windows go in exactly the same as the center window. It is a good idea to have someone help you with the smaller windows because you can't reach around like you did with the larger window.
- After the blocks are in, break off the spacer tabs and then tuck and point the corners and joints. Smooth everything out (figure I).
- On the exterior, you need to prime the edge of the frame of the window before you caulk the perimeter. Use glass block sealant caulk. This sealant will seal all of the cracks between the glass and frame and it allows for expansion and contraction for this type of window. Use the same caulk on the interior.
RESOURCES :
Taunton's Build Like a Pro: Windows and Doors: Expert Advice From Start to Finish (Build Like a Pro)
ISBN: 1561584835
Author: Scott McBride
Order this book from Amazon.com.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Glass Block Materials (Pittsburgh Corning Corp.)
Pittsburgh Corning Corporation
Pittsburgh, PA 15239
Phone: 724-327-6100
Fax: 724-325-9704
Website: www.pittsburghcorning.com
The Complete Guide to Doors and Windows
Model: 1589230450
Author: Tom Lemmer
(August 2002)
Order this book from Amazon.com.
Creative Publishing International, Inc.
Website: www.creativepub.com
Great Windows and Doors: A Step-by-Step Guide
Model: 0806956038
Author: Rick Peters
(June 2001)
Order this book from Amazon.com.
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
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