| Chippendale Side Table -- Shaping the Legs, Table Base Assembly and Making a Frame for the Tabletop |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-101 |
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A combination of intricate cuts create the elegant look of the Chippendale Side Table legs. Materials for Shaping the Legs and Table Base Assembly: Router and table
Four different bits: - V (creates a shadow line on the outside of the leg)
- Core box (creates two combed shapes down the center of the leg)
- 3/16" radius (creates a rounded edge on the three outside corners of the legs)
- Champhor (creates an elegant bevel on the outside of the leg)
Finger boards (perfect for ensuring accurate cuts)
220-grit sandpaper
Rubber-head hammer
Band clamp
Corner stop-blocks
Square
Safety goggles Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Website -- information, below, under Resources. Safety Alert: Always use safety goggles when working with wood, saws, drills, etc. - Using finger boards that have been clamped into place firmly against the fence and the bit (figure A), pass the legs through using a V-bit. This is what gives the legs their classic shape. The V-bit cuts the lines that define the edges of the legs.
- Two concave cuts are added to each of the outside faces with a core box bit ( figure B).
- Soften the outside edges with the radius bit.
- Only one pass with the bevel bit (champhor) (figure C -- lower left) is needed on the inside corner.
- Shape the aprons by using the V-bit to cut a parallel line along the bottom of the stock (figure D -- lower left).
- Make a second pass with apron stock using a 1/4" radius bit to round off the edge (figure E -- lower left), creating a "V" in the wood.
- Use 220-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges and restore the softness.
Assembling the Base of the Table - Using a rubber-head hammer, dry-fit the parts of the table base together (figure F).
- Squirt glue in the mortises and on the tenons.
- Assemble all the legs and aprons, using the mortises and tenons, then use a band clamp and corner stop-blocks to secure the table base (figure G).
- When the assembly is tight, check the corners with a square to make sure each has the perfect right angle.
- Set the base aside for a couple of hours to let the glue dry.
Making the Frame for the Tabletop Materials: Table saw
4 milled mahogany frame pieces
Router and table
Ogee bit
Chop saw
Biscuit jointer
#20 biscuit
Hand plane
Hand-held scraper
Square-tip gripping blade
Safety goggles - For the 4 frame pieces to accept the 2 tabletop panels, use a table saw to create 1/4" dados (figure H). A couple of passes on the table saw should be sufficient.
- On the router table use an ogee bit (figure I -- lower left) to shape the inside edge of the frame.
- Cut a 45-degree miter on the ends of the frame stock (figure J) with a chop saw.
- Use a biscuit jointer and #20 biscuit to create slots in the miters of the 4 frames.
Note: Using a biscuit jointer is similar to doing mortise-and-loose-tenon construction, except it's as if someone has already created the loose tenons for you. - Remove the glue from the center line of the attached tabletop panels with a hand planer, then use a hand-held scraper to remove the mill marks rapidly. Be sure to use the hand scraper at a 45-degree angle.
- Once the tabletop panel is perfectly smooth, cut it to size with a table saw.
- Add a rabbet groove around the bottom of the panel by using a square-tip gripping blade (figure K). This blade will make sure the rabbet is a clean 90-degree surface.
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RESOURCES :
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
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