| Chippendale Side Table -- Table Assembly |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-101 |
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Materials: Table saw
Block plane
Hand-held scraper
Yellow wood glue
Band clamp
4 bar clamps
Roman ogee bit
3/8" radius bit
Sandpaper
Small dowel rod
Blue masking tape
8 blocked squares of cork (for clamping)
8 blocks of wood (for clamping) Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Website -- information, below, under Resources. Safety Alert: Always use safety goggles when working with wood, saws, drills, etc. - Make sure the edges of the tabletop panels and the frame stock are smooth by going over them with a block plane and a hand-held scraper.
- Now it's time to glue the tabletop panel to the 4 frame pieces.
Glue Tip: Don't put any glue on the rabbets or the dados because the movement of the wood could be restricted and cause the panel to crack. - Apply some glue to the biscuits and miters (figure A) and use a band clamp to hold the frame together.
Tip: Adding 4 bar clamps, positioned on the corners (figure B), will pull the miter joints in tightly. - Set the top aside for at least 2 hours to dry.
- Once the tabletop has dried, it's time to shape the outside edge of the frame. (It wasn't shaped earlier in order to leave square corners on the edge of the frame to provide something for the clamp to hold on to.)
- Use a Roman ogee bit (figure C -- lower left) to shape the outside edge of the frame, and be sure to make two passes to lessen the chance of chips to the frame. Be sure to raise the bit to full height for the second pass.
- Use a 3/8" radius bit to round off the bottom of the frame. Raise the bit for the second pass. The radius bit does a great job of softening the bottom edge of the frame.
- Sand the wood.
Tip: To sand the intricate edges of the wood, use a sanding rod created by fastening sandpaper around a dowel with double-faced tape (figure D). - After sanding the surface of the tabletop, including the intricate corners, it's time to glue the top of the table to the base. Put glue only on the base, not the top. This will minimize how much glue can be squeezed out.
- When setting the top in place, use blue tape (figure E) to help with the alignment.
- Clamp the tabletop to the base with blocks of wood that have a thin layer of cork attached (figure F); this technique allows for sufficient clamping pressure without the possibility of damag to the wood's surface.
- Give the glue a couple of hours to dry.
Sponsored Resource
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RESOURCES :
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
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