| Mahogany Headboard -- Joinery and Curves |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-403 |
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Joinery and Curves With the frame pieces and veneered panels created, the next phase in the headboard project is to complete the joinery and join the panels to the frame. Materials: Table saw
Table router
Band saw
Biscuit joiner; zero biscuits
Carpenter's pencil
Compass
Clamps
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc. Steps: - A 3/4-inch dado is cut in the bottom of the crest-rail of the headboard using the table router and rabbet bit (figure A). This dado will hold the panels in place. The bearing on the top of the rabbet bit determines the depth of the dado -- 3/16-inch deep. The height of the bearing bit sets the width of the dado to 3/4-inch wide -- the same width as the panels. To ensure that the through-dado is cut so that it is centered, the panel is flipped and the dado is cut in two passes.
- The panels sit in the frame by sliding into the dado cut along the bottom of the crest-rail. The legs, rails and stiles are attached to the panels using biscuit joinery.
- To simplify the laying out of the marks for the biscuits, create two marking sticks. Make one to lay out the biscuit slots on the legs, stiles and sides of the panels (figure B). Make a second to lay out the biscuits on the bottom rail and the bottom edge of the panels.
- Use a biscuit joiner to batch-cut biscuit slots so that they are centered in the stock for the panels, legs (figure C), stiles and bottom rails.
- With the joinery all cut, conduct a dry-fit of the pieces using long clamps (figure D).
- Before the elements can be put together, a curve must be cut in the top of the panels and the stiles to fit into the crest rail. With the pieces dry-fit together, scribe a pencil line onto the panels and stiles to mark the curve of the rail (figure E).
- Use a compass to draw a parallel line 3/16-inch above the curved line you just scribed (figure F) to provide stock long enough to fit into the dado of the crest-rail.
- Carefully cut the curve in the panels and stiles using the band saw (figure G).
- The headboard was designed so that the stiles are slightly thicker than the panels. The stiles will slide into a dado in the crest-rail. To join the elements together, stub tenons are cut in the ends (figure H).
- Cut the stub tenons at the table saw with the saw-blade raised 3/16-inch to cut the shoulders on the stiles, notching away the wood (figure I) until a stub-tenon is created.
- Before a final dry-fit, a few decorative touches are added to all of the pieces. First, chamfer all of the edges of the legs and crest-rail at the router table, using a 45-degree chamfer bit raised 3/16-inch (figure J). Do the same for the other pieces of the frame with the bit raised 1/16-inch.
In the segment that follows, the headboard is assembled and given a fine wood-finish.
Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
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