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  • Oak Step Ladder -- Side Panels
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-205
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    Click here to view a larger image.

    This contemporary stepladder is made of quarter-sawn white oak. Constructed with dado joinery, the ladder is sturdy and functional as well as attractive.

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    The quarter-sawn oak is enhanced with ebony accent tenons and Honduran rosewood trim.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M

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    Figure N

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    Figure O

    Ordinarily, a stepladder would scarcely be regarded as an object of beauty. When made with meticulous craftsmanship and fine materials, however, even mundane and everyday items can take on visual appeal and some artistic character.

    In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds a sturdy white-oak stepladder with Honduran rosewood accents. Designed for heavy use, the structure is build from quarter-sawn oak -- a wood known for its strength and stability. The contemporary look of the piece reveals a solid, sturdy construction.

    Quarter-sawn white oak is the traditional wood of choice in the arts and crafts style of furniture design and is well suited to a contemporary piece like this as well. The wood is weighty and strong and characterized by a visually distinctive grain pattern known as medullary ray-fleck. To identify quarter-sawn oak, look at the pattern of the end grain. Regular flat-sawn oak has an end grain that runs parallel to the face of the board. The end-grain on quarter-sawn oak, by contrast, runs perpendicular to the face.

    Materials:


    Quarter-sawn white oak stock
    MDF for template
    Table saw; cross-cut sled
    Band saw
    Table router; flush-bearing bit; radius bit
    Hand router
    Double-stick tape
    Yellow wood-glue
    Glue roller
    Clamps
    Straightedge
    Carpenter's pencil
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his website -- information below under Resources.

    Safety alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.

    Side Panels


    Steps:

    1. To begin the project, each of the ladder's side panels (figure A) is created from three pieces of oak stock that are milled to 7/8" thick and edge-glued to make a piece wide enough to form the whole panels.

    2. A template for the sides (figure B), made from 1/2" MDF, is created to serve as a guide for cutting the panels.

    3. Since the side panels have a triangular shape, the oak stock is glued up with a long piece in the center and two shorter pieces on the outside (figure C). This technique reduces the amount of wood stock that is wasted.

      • Tip: When edge-gluing boards together, try to match the grain pattern on the faces of the boards as best you can to create a unified look. Clamp the boards with an adequate amount of clamping pressure to ensure that the seams are tight and the bond is strong.
    4. Tip: When using fine materials like the quarter-sawn oak, it's advisable first to build a prototype of the piece out of less expensive materials (e.g., MDF or poplar) to work out the cuts and joinery before beginning work with the more expensive products.

    5. The prototype for this ladder helped work out the angles for the side panels. Through trial and error, it was determined that the sides would feature a gentle 8-degree angle (figure D). For everything to line up properly, the side panels would need to be angle-cut at the top and bottom. The 8-degree angle also comes into play later when cutting out the steps and the dados that hold them in place.

    6. Because of the angled cuts that will be made, it's essential to identify the left and right sides on the glued-up stock pieces. Take a look at the stock and identify the best grain patterns. Use those as the outside surfaces for the panels. Then make your cuts accordingly.

    7. To make the angle cuts, install a cross-cutting sled at the table saw and set the angle on the blade at 8 degrees (figure E).

    8. Make the 8-degree cuts along the bottom of the side panel (figure F), then slide the stock over and cut an 8-degree angle on the top. Repeat this process for both side panels.

    9. Using double-stick tape, attach the template to the top surface of the side panel and cut out the form using the band saw (figure G). Repeat for both side panels.

    10. The profiles cut on the band saw results in the rough shape of the sides. Clean up the edges of the sides on the router table using a flush-bearing bit (figure H). The bearing follows the smooth surface of the template as a guide while the bit cleans up the edges of the side panels.

    11. With the side legs cut to their final dimension, work begins to cut the dados that will hold the steps in place. Referring again to the prototype, it was determined that the bottom step would be set 10" above the ground, with the second step about 9 inches above that, and the top step about 8-1/2 inches above the second step. The front edge of the ladder slopes at a 20-degree angle to the ground. A sliding bevel gauged set at a 20-degree angle (figure I) is used to make the layout marks to ensure that the steps will sit parallel to the ground (figure J).

    12. The dados cut in the side panels are 3/8-inch deep by 5/8-inch wide. The positions are marked on the side panels (figure K), and the dados are cut using a hand-router and flush-bearing bit.

    13. To angle the dados to match the 8-degree angles in the legs, a wedge template is used. The wedge, cut from 1/2-inch MDF, is cut at 8 degrees. When the router is set on the wedge (figure L), the angle of the dado will match that of the legs.

    14. With the wedge glued to a piece of 1/4-inch plywood and clamped in place, the dados are cut using the router and flush-bearing bit (figure M). This wedged jig simplifies the cutting, and ensures a straight cut.

    15. When cutting the dados, stop a little short of the pencil marks. Use a sharp chisel to square off the corners of the dados (figure N).

    16. The final step for the sides is to shape the edges of the panels using the table-router and a 1/8-inch radius bit. Stop-cuts are made around the dados (figure O) to ensure that the radius bit doesn't cut into the joinery.

    In the segment that follows, the steps are made and trimmed with rosewood.


    Sponsored Resource
    > Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!


    RESOURCES :

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
    Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561580619


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
    Author: Mark Duginske
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 0942391985

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

    The Complete Book of Wood Joinery
    Author: Robert J. Decristoforo
    Publisher: Sterling Publishing Co. ISBN: 0806999500

    Popular Woodworking
    F & W Publications, Inc.
    Website: www.popularwoodworking.com

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