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  • Contemporary Walnut Bench -- Seat and Copper Finish
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-303
    advertisement

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M

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    Figure N

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    Figure O

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    Figure P

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    Figure Q

    With the copper-veneered base and walnut supports made, the next phases of this project are creation of the bench seat and applying a chemical treatment to the copper veneer that will result in a distinctive patina finish.

    Solid Walnut Bench-Seat

    Materials:

    Solid walnut slab
    MDF jib
    Table saw
    Drill press
    Hand router
    Sharp chisel
    Carpenter's pencil
    Carpenter's tape Clamps
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources.

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.



    Steps:


    • For the seat of the bench, a solid 1-3/4-inch thick plank of solid walnut is used. The walnut slab has been cut to 5 feet long and milled 12 inches wide.


    • The mortises are positioned 12 inches in from the ends of the bench. To ensure that the mortises are placed precisely and uniformly, a template is cut from MDF (figure A).


    • The template is cut to the exact width of the bench (12 inches), and mortises are cut in the MDF to match the size of the post tenon. The mortises are cut 12-1/8 inches in from the end of the template, allowing for the 1/8-inch shoulder on the tenon (figure B).


    • Position the MDF template and make layout marks for cutting the mortises (figure C).


    • With the layout marks for the mortises made on the walnut stock, use the drill press and a 3/4-inch forstner bit to drill away the bulk of the stock (figure D). To make room for the glue, 1/16-inch is added to the depth of the mortise. This means that the bore on the drill press is set to 1-5/16 inches.


    • With the template in place, rout the mortise with a flush-trim bit with a top-bearing (figure E). The bearing rides along the sides of the template while the bit cuts into the walnut. It's a good idea to make the cuts in several passes to achieve the precise depth.


    • Use a sharp chisel to square up the corners of the mortise (figure F).


    • It's a good idea to dry-fit the post as you work (figure G), and make any incremental adjustments necessary to ensure a snug fit.


    • To soften the edges of the seat, a bevel is added along all four sides of the walnut stock. In this project, practice cuts were first made on MDF to arrive at a satisfactory angle of 18 degrees. The angled cut is made so that it cuts 2/3 of the way into the stock (figure H).


    • Set the table saw-blade to 18 degrees, and the fence to 12-3/16 inches, place the walnut slab on the table saw (figure I) and make the angled cuts along the length (figure J).


    • After ripping bevels in the length of the seat, add the cross-cut sled to the table saw and make the bevels on the ends (figure K).





    Copper Finish

    To create the colorful patina, a chemical solution of ammonium chloride, zinc chloride, cupric sulfate, salt, vinegar, hot water is mixed with sawdust and applied to the copper.

    Safety Alert: This chemical solution is toxic.

    Safety Alert: Always wear protective gloves when working with finishes, stains and solvents.

    • With the walnut posts glued into the base mortises (figure L), all of the parts of the bench are ready for assembly. Before assembly, however, the patina finish for the copper is put on.


    • The wood posts are wrapped in plastic and taped (figure M) to protect the wood from the chemicals used on the copper.


    • The liquid solution is poured into sawdust (figure N) and stirred.


    • The soaked-sawdust mixture is then placed randomly onto a layer of cheesecloth.


    • After the base is placed onto the cheesecloth, more of the sawdust mixture is added to the surface of the copper (figure O).


    • The base is then wrapped in the cheesecloth to hold the sawdust in place, and more of the chemical solution is added to the outside of the bundle (figure P).


    • The whole bundle is then sealed in plastic sheeting (figure Q) and secured with tape. The bases are left in this wrap for about three weeks to allow the chemicals to work.




    In the segment that follows, the bases are unwrapped, the patina process is completed, the parts are assembled and a wood finish is applied to the walnut.

    Sponsored Resource
    > Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!


    RESOURCES :

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
    Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561580619


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
    Author: Mark Duginske
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 0942391985

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

    Popular Woodworking
    F & W Publications, Inc.
    Website: www.popularwoodworking.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: