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  • Dovetail Bench: Cutting the Joinery
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-602


    PHOTO

    A modern take on a classic (actually ancient) form of joinery -- the dovetail joint.
    PHOTO

    The completed pins and sockets of the dovetails. These were rough-cut using a band saw, then hand-shaped using specialized dovetail chisels.
    In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds an Egyptian-inspired bench made using dovetail joinery. With the stock prepped and marked, work can begin cutting out the classic dovetail joinery that will hold the bench components together.

    Materials:

    Band saw
    Japanese dovetail chisels
    Inclinometer
    Straight-edge
    Carpenter's pencil
    Carpenter's tape
    Slow-setting resin glue
    Dead-blow hammer
    Custom-made caul
    Clamps
    Toothbrush
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

    advertisement


    PHOTO

    Figure A

    Cutting the Dovetail Joinery

    Dovetail joinery is typically cut using a specially designed dovetail jig (figure A). The jig holds the wood in place and guides the router as you cut the dovetails. However, because the dovetails and wooden elements for this bench are so large, the jig won't help. A standard jig can only be used to cut boards up to 1-1/4" thick. for this bench, the stock being cut is 1-3/4" thick. Therefore, for this project the dovetail joinery will be created using a precision band-saw and then refined by hand using a chisel. So in this case, the joinery is created using a blend of modern woodworking tools and old-school craftsmanship.

    • To begin, set the table on the band saw to cut a 12-degree angle (figure B).

    • This cutting angle matches the angle of the pins on one side -- in this case, the left side (figure C).
      Photo

      Figure B

      Photo

      Figure C


    • Once all of the pins on the left side have been cut, re-set the saw bed to the opposite tilt direction at 12 degrees (figure D). You can check the cutting angle using an inclinometer.

    • With the saw-bed set, cut the angled right sides of all of the pins (figure E).
      Photo

      Figure D

      Photo

      Figure E


    • Next, set the bed back to zero and check the angle for accuracy. With the stock flipped over so that the wide sides of the pins are facing up, carefully make cuts to remove the stock between the pins -- the areas known as the sockets. Having the wide sides of the pins face up as you cut (figures F and G) helps ensure that you won't accidentally trim off the edge of a pin.
      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G


      PHOTO

      Figure H
      PHOTO

      Figure I

    • With the sockets cut and the pins roughed out, you can trim off the excess stock using Japanese dovetail chisels. Use a piece of scrap wood, clamped beneath the stock, as a guide as you chisel out the excess wood (figures H and I).

      Tip: To help secure the guide in place, you can add a piece of sandpaper underneath so that it won't slip.

    • Working with hand tools is where the fine details of woodworking are showcased. In this case, your hand-shaping will determine the fit of the dovetails. For precision, it's best to chisel down about halfway on each dovetail, then flip the stock, reset the guide block and carefully chisel from the opposing direction until all the pins and sockets are neatly exposed.


    • With the pins complete, work can begin laying out and cutting the tails in the maple stock for the seat. To lay out the positioning, clamp the wood guide-block in place so that it's aligned with the scribe line, then clamp the pin stock securely on the maple tail stock. The edges of both boards should be flush with each other, and the inside face of the pin stock should rest on the scribe line of the tail stock.

    • With the stock clamped securely, scribe the tail layout from inside joint so that the scribe knife follows the outlines of the pins (figures J and K).
      Photo

      Figure J

      Photo

      Figure K


    • Once the marks have been extended across the maple stock, remove the waste between the tails using the band saw. With the bed of the band saw set at zero degrees, carefully cut out both side pieces, make multiple cuts between each tail (figure L) so that the waste can be easily removed using a chisel.

    • Remove the waste in the pin sockets using the same technique used to cut the pins. Use a piece of scrap wood, clamped beneath the stock and aligned with the scribe line, as a guide-block as you chisel out the excess wood (figure M).

    • Repeat the steps on the other side.

    • This is a precision job and requires careful handcrafting. Be prepared to spend the better part of a day carefully chiseling out the dovetails. The pins and sockets must be cut precisely for a strong joint and a clean look.
      Photo

      Figure L

      Photo

      Figure M


    • Once the joinery for both sides of the seat are cut, you can conduct a dry-fit. Align the pieces and, using a dead-blow hammer, gently tap the pin and tail stock together (figures N and O).

      Important: Avoid forcing the fit. If you encounter resistance, separate the stock and make fine adjustments to the fit using a sharp chisel or file. Repeat the process until you get a good, tight fit.
      Photo

      Figure N

      Photo

      Figure O


      PHOTO

      Figure P
      PHOTO

      Figure Q
      PHOTO

      When making angled cuts on the band saw by angling the saw bed, you can check the cutting angle using an inclinometer.

    • Once you've performed a successful dry-fit, you can begin glue-up. Apply slow-setting resin glue to the pins and sockets (figure P).

    • Set the pins and sockets together carefully using the dead-blow hammer. Check to make certain that the top and sides are square.

    • For clamping, David made a special notched cauls to assist with the clamping pressure. The notched pattern concentrates the pressure on the joint to ensure a tight fit without gaps -- while allowing the pins to protrude slightly (figure Q).

    • Once the bench has been clamped using bar-clamps and the special cauls, use a toothbrush and some clean water to remove any excess glue squeeze-out before it sets.

    In the segment that follows, the seat and legs of the dovetail bench are shaped and sculpted.


    RESOURCES :


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: