DIY Network

Egyptian Dresser, Part 1: Inner Case and Outer Frame From "Wood Works" episode WWK-708

	An Egyptian-inspired dresser made from mahogany and with ebony drawer-pulls.
	Details on this dresser include an angular frame and cove molding.

In this special two-episode installment of Wood Works, David Marks builds a stunning Egyptian-inspired dresser with slanted angles, a cove-molded top and rich finish. This first episode is devoted to building the dresser case from mahogany plywood, making the two side panels and attaching the base of the dresser.

In this first segment, David provides an overview of the dresser design. Work then gets underway on building the inner case that will hold the drawers and the outer frame of the dresser.

Tools and materials used in this episode:

Mahogany stock
Maple stock
Oak stock
Ebony stock
Maple plywood stock
MDF for templates and mockup
Table saw; cross-cut sled
Tapering jig
Multi-router
Jointer
Power planer
Table router
Biscuit jointer
Drill press
Clamps
Yellow woodworker's glue
Slow-setting resin glue
Hand scraper
Sandpaper, various grits
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C

Design Overview

This project is an Egyptian-inspired dresser made from mahogany with drawers of maple and ebony drawer-pulls. The rich mahogany construction is framed with an angled base that rises to a solid top highlighted by a classic coved profile. It's a complicated design, -- including compound angles, cove moldings and complex assemblies -- so it's construction is actually covered in two successive episodes of Wood Works. This is the online counterpart for the first of the two episodes.

As with most large projects, David began this one with a full-scale drawing to work out the scale and proportions of the piece. It also gives a good idea of the sub-assemblies that make up the entire piece.

The construction can be divided into six main parts:

• The base (figure A);
  
• the inside case that will hold the drawers (figure B);
  
• the outside case of mahogany (figure C);
  
• the cove molding;
  
• the top; and
  
• the three drawers.

This first episode of the two-part series focuses on the base and the inside and outside frames.

The Inside Case

• To make the case, rip some 3/4" plywood sheets to a width of 18". For safety, use anti-kickback rollers to hold the piece snug against the fence of the table saw.

• Cut the pieces to length, with two at 34-1/2" and two at 21-5/8" (figure D).

• To join the case stock, cut #20 biscuit slots along the edges of the two long top and bottom pieces, using a reference board to guide the biscuit joiner.
  
  
• Next, cut slots into the ends of the two short side-pieces (figure E).

  Figure D

  Figure E

  
  

  
  
  

• With the biscuit joinery cut, you're ready to assemble the case. Apply yellow glue to the slots, insert the biscuits, and assemble the case using a dead-blow hammer to tap the pieces together (figure F).

• Note: Assemble the case on top of cauls to allow room for vertical clamps, and use right-angle guides cut from plywood to ensure that the frame's corners are square (figure G).

• Allow the glue to dry.

  Figure F

  Figure G

  
  

  
  

There are essentially two identical frames that make up the front and back. Since they are identical, this demonstration only shows the construction of one.

Figure H

Figure I

Run each board through the power planer to make the opposite face flat and parallel.

Figure K

Figure J

Using a tapering jig, cut tapers in each stile so that each measures 4" at the bottom and narrows to 3/4" at the top (figure M). Save the fall-off as it will be used later in clamping.

Figure L

Figure M

Cut matching tenons for all of the mortises.

Figure N

Figure O

	Figure P
	Figure Q