| Three-Panel Screen -- Installing Wooden Hinges and Panels |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-105 |
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With the framework elements done and the lace-wood panels and hinges made, work can now begin on installing the wooden hinges in the frame. Notches for the hinges have already been cut into the frame stiles -- as well as slots (or kerfs) that will accept the brass hinge pins. Small pieces of wood known as splines now need to be cut to hold the brass pins in place and to conceal the kerfs.
Materials:
Maple stock
Band saw
Drum sander
Disc sander
Table router; flush-bearing bit, bevel bit and v-bit
Chop saw
Cordless drill
Yellow wood glue
Masking tape
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Website -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.
Installing the Wooden Hinges and Crest-Rail Accents Steps: - The spline stock is made by ripping small pieces of maple to width and thickness using a band saw, then smoothing it to its final dimension using a drum sander.
- With spline stock cut, the individual pieces are taped together. This allows a curve to be batch-cut on the end of the splines (figure A) using the band saw.
- The ends of the splines are then smoothed on the disc sander (figure B), creating a curve that will match the curves of the slots.
- With the splines milled, the hinges can be inserted and tested in the assembly. The wooden hinge and brass pin fit into the wooden notch and slot (respectively) in the stile. With the pin inserted into the slot, the hinge should fit snugly but pivot freely in the notch (figure C).
- With the hinges tested and working smoothly, the wood splines will later be glued in the stiles' slots (figure D) to hold the hinge pins in place and conceal the kerf.
- For the crest-rail accents at the top of the frame, a template with a semicircular design is fashioned out of plywood. The template is then used to mark the design on the maple stock that will form the top crest rail (figure E).
- With the lines drawn, the stock can be rough-cut using a band saw. Once the pieces have been cut, the edges are smoothed using a table router and flush-bearing bit (figure F). The template is attached to the cut stock with doublestick tape to help ensure accuracy. After the edges have been cleaned up, a bevel bit is installed on the table router to create bevels on the exposed edges of the frame.
- Next, a v-bit is used on the crescent rail to accentuate the semicircular design.
- Finally, a rabbet bit is installed on the router to cut a rabbet around the back side of the frame stock (figure G). The rabbet will accept the lace-wood panel.
Completing the Frame
and Installing the Wood Panels
- Once the crest rails are done and the rabbet has been cut in the frame, the frame structure can be dry-clamped together. Check the joints to ensure a snug fit, then take measurements around the inside of the frame (figure H) for the trim that will hold the panels in place in the rabbet.
- Once you've taken measurements for the trim, glue up the frame. The frame needs to be strong enough to support the weight of the panel on its own. The panel won't be glued in, but rather held in place by the trim pieces. In this way, the panel is allowed to "float" in the frame. Use yellow wood glue to assemble the frame using the mortise-and-tenon joinery created earlier (figure I). Once all the elements are glued, clamp the frame assembly for a secure hold as the glue dries.
- While the glue is drying, it's a good opportunity to cut the trim pieces. For the trim, strips of maple are cut to size, and a rabbet is cut along one side (figure J) to create a good fit with the frame and panel. The trim corners are miter-cut using a chop saw (figure K).
- Once they are cut, the edges of the trim pieces can be shaped using a bevel bit on the table router.
- Next, predrill pilot holes for the screws in the trim and frame (figure L) using a hand drill. This will help ensure trouble-free installation of the screws.
- Finally, since the router bit leaves rounded corners, use a sharp chisel to square up the corners of the rabbet (figure M). The 90-degree corners will allow the wood panels to drop easily into the rabbet and to be secured with the strips of wood trim.
In the next segment, a faux-ebony finish is applied to the frame, and finishing touches are added for the final assembly. Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
The Complete Book of Wood Joinery
Author: Robert J. Decristoforo
Publisher: Sterling Publishing Co.
ISBN: 0806999500
Advanced Woodworking
Model: 0783539126
Author: Editors of Time Life Books
1998
Time-Life Books Inc.
Website: www.timelife.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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