| Game Board -- Frame and Inlaid Border |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-411 |
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With the, checkered center portion of the game board glued up and dried, it can be trimmed to its final dimensions. Then work can now begin on the walnut frame and inlaid border. Materials: Table saw
Mitering jig
Band saw
Drum sander
Jointer
Dead-blow hammer
Cabinet scraper
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Carpenter's tape
Clamps
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc. Steps: - At this point in the project, the checkerboard has two finished edges and two slightly oversized edges that are slightly uneven. The extra width was needed to adjust the squares so that they would line up perfectly during glue-up. Now that the two wide strips on the outside have served their purpose, their two edges can be trimmed to make the checkerboard a perfect square.
- Measure out 2-1/2 inches from the first glue joint, and use a steel-rule straight-edge to draw a line (figure A). Do the same on the opposite side of the board.
- At the table saw, carefully trim away the excess stock on both sides using the layout marks as a guide (figure B).
- As seen on the prototype, an inlaid band is added to separate the frame from the checkered portion of the game board. The decorative accent is created by sandwiching a strip of satinwood between two strips of ebony (figure C).
- At the band saw, cut ebony and satinwood stock into banding strips that are 30 inches long by 1-1/8-inches wide and 1/16-inch thick (figure D).
- Run the strips through the drum sander to take them down to final thickness.
- With the banding strips cut, work can begin on the walnut frame. To visually differentiate the frame from the checkered portion of the board, we selected figured claro walnut. The stock we used was 1 inch thick and ripped to a width of 4-1/4 inches. Four such pieces were cut to a length of 30 inches.
- At the jointer, flatten the edges of the inside edge of the stock (figure E).
- To attach the ebony and satinwood to the frame, apply a thin, even coat of yellow glue to the edge of the frame and to the banding (figure F). It's a good idea to use a rubber roller to distribute the glue evenly.
- Center the banding onto the edge, adding the pieces a layer at a time (figure G). Attach the banding with carpenter's tape so that they don't slip.
Note: It's not necessary for the banding to run the full length of the frame stock since miters will be cut on each end of the frame pieces. - When you clamp the pieces together to dry, set the glued stack down onto a 1/16-inch shim. This will raise the stock to ensure that the banding will overlap both sides.
- Add cauls to both sides, and tighten the clamps securely (figure H). As you tighten, gently tap the edges of the banding with a dead-blow hammer to seat the pieces.
- Once the glue has dried, use a cabinet scraper to smooth the banding flush with the frame stock (figure I).
- Next, the miters can be cut on the frame stock so that the pieces will form a square frame. The miters must be cut carefully to avoid damaging the thin banding that is now attached. Cut the stock pieces one at a time using the mitering jig on the table saw (figure J).
- After making the first 45-degree cut on the end of the frame stock, line it up against the checkerboard (figure K) to mark the position of the miter cut on the other side.
Tip: As you cut the frame pieces, mark each one with chalk reference marks to match the frame pieces to each side of the board. - Using the layout mark as a guide, clamp a stop-block on to the fence of the miter jig (figure L), and cut the second 45-degree miter.
- Next, miter the end of the second frame-stock piece. Line the second piece up against the checkerboard (figure M) and mark the position of the second cut.
- Repeat these steps for the other frame pieces, methodically working your way around the board and marking each piece to correspond with a specific side of the board. Continue until you have each section of the frame cut and fitted (figure N).
- If necessary, plane the mitered edges to make any adjustments to the fit.
In the segment that follows, the joinery is made to connect the frame pieces to one another and to the checkered board. Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
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