| Frame-and-Panel Door: Assembly |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-502 |
|
|
|
advertisement
|
Assembly and Glue-Up
With all the parts of the door complete, final assembly and glue-up can begin. Once the glue-up is complete and the glue has dried, the door hardware can be installed. Materials: Slow-setting plastic resin glue
Glue brushes
Double-sided tape
Cork strips
Clamps
Contoured wood spacers
Door hardware: antique doorknob, lock and latch mechanism, hinges
Plunge router
Cordless drill
Sharp chisel
Compass
Rat-tail file
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc. Steps: - Arrange the elements of the door for assembly. Double-stick tape some cork strips to the bottoms of the panels (figure A) to raise them to the height of the dados. This will help align the panels to the frame for easier assembly.
- Begin the glue-up by adding glue to the mortises and tenons.
- To hold the panels in the frame, add just a dab of glue to the center of each dado (figure B). This small amount of glue keeps the panel centered while allowing the sides of the panel to expand and contract.
- Essentially the frame is assembled from the inside out. First, glue the muntins to the center rail (figure C).
- Add glue to the center of the dados where the chalk marks indicate the center points, and place the panels in position (figure D).
- Add the kick-rail (figure E) and top-rail, and tap them into place with a dead-blow hammer.
- Glue the tenons into the mortises (figure F) and set the stiles in position. Tap them into place with a dead-blow hammer.
- Gently tap the frame and panels into alignment, then use a long vertical clamp to pull the assembly together. Add horizontal clamps to the top, middle and bottom sections (figure G).
- Add wood spacers to the panels. The wood spacers should be cut with a curve to match the shape of the cove (figure H). The spacers serve to center the panels in the frame (figure I). Gently tap all of the spacers into position, and tighten all of the clamps securely. (Cork blocks can be used to protect the door edges from damage by the clamps.)
Door Hardware The selection of the knob and lock is a personal choice and can reflect your own taste and style. Hardware comes in a wide range of styles, and the elements you choose should complement the overall style and look of the door. - We opted for an authentic antique doorknob (figure J) purchased from an antique store. If you prefer the look of authentic period-pieces like this, try seeking out classic hardware from specialty stores, antique stores, salvage yards, architectural-accent dealers and sources on the internet.
- For hinges, we used ball-bearing hinges that hold up well considering the weight of the door that is made of a dense hardwood. Three hinges were used, and they were positioned respectively at 7 inches from the top, 7 inches from the bottom, and the exact center.
- Use a plunge router to cut the hinge mortises. Don't rout all the way through the stile, but instead leave about 1/8-inch of stock at the rear of the mortise. A fence attached to the router will help achieve this.
- Square the corners of the mortise using a sharp chisel (figure K).
- Use a hand-drill to make pilot holes for the screws that will secure the hinges in the mortises (figure L). Place a piece of tape on the drill bit to ensure uniformity in depth among all of the pilot holes.
- Once the pilot holes are all drilled, screw the hinges in place (figure M). Waxing the threads of the screws will help ensure that they turn easily as they are screwed into the dense jarrah wood.
- Use a compass and white marking-pencil to lay out and mark the position of the doorknob (figure N). We positioned ours centered on the lock-stile, at 36 inches from the bottom of the door. This is typical spacing for door hardware.
- Use a hand-drill and Forstner bit to cut the hole for the doorknob (figure O). To avoid chip-out drill only half-way, then flip the door over and drill out the other side.
- Use a plunge-router to cut out the mortise for the locking plate. With the mortise cut, mark the position of the locking mechanism. (figure P)
- To create the mortise for the lock, use a hand-drill, chisel and, finally, a rat-tail file (figure Q) to achieve the proper size and shape for the mortise.
In the segment that follows, the door is sanded, detailed and given a tung-oil finish. Sponsored Resource
Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
The Complete Guide to Doors and Windows
Model: 1589230450
Author: Tom Lemmer
(August 2002)
Order this book from Amazon.com.
Creative Publishing International, Inc.
Website: www.creativepub.com
Taunton's Build Like a Pro: Windows and Doors (Expert Advice from Start to Finish)
Model: 1561584835
Author: Scott McBride
(April, 2002)
Order this book from Amazon.com.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
| 
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
