| Turtle Toy-Box: Sculpted Sides and Top |
From "Wood Works" episode WWK-702 |
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 Dry-fitting the box pieces.
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 Cutting the stock that will form the turtle's head.
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 Sculpting the lid.
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In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks creates a child's toy-box fashioned and carved to look like a turtle. In this second segment, the case is assembled and work gets underway on sculpting the sides and top.Materials and tools used in this episode: Alder stock 1/2" maple plywood MDF for templates Jointer Table saw; cross-cut sled Jig saw 14" band saw Plunge router Power grinder; arbor-tech blade Disc sander Random-orbital sander Die grinder; ball-mill Biscuit jointer; #20 biscuits Sharp chisel Small v-shaped gouge Dead-blow hammer Brad driver; brads Wire cutters Clamps Yellow woodworker's glue Glue roller Slow-setting resin glue Drawing paper Carbon paper Cheese cloth Green stain Non-toxic salad-bowl finish Brass hinges Safety lid-supports Straight-edge Carpenter's pencil Felt-tipped marker Safety glasses or goggles Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.
Sculpted Sides and Top- With the slots cut for the biscuit joinery, the shapes for the sides can be cut out using the band saw. Because of the thickness of the stock, David uses a 14-inch band saw to make the cuts (figure A).
With the sides rough-cut out according the templates, a dry-fit of the side pieces can be done (figure B). With the pieces together, you can measure for the exact dimensions of the bottom panel.At the table saw, cut the bottom panel from 1/2" maple plywood. Our panel is 21-1/4" long by 15" wide. Test the fit of the panel with the box (figure C).
Before glue-up of the box can be done, there are a couple of things still left to be done. One is to add more mass to the turtle's feet to allow additional stock for sculpting the outside. Using the side template once again, trace the profile of the feet onto a piece of alder stock that is 1-7/8" thick. Lay out four profiles, with the grain running in the same direction as the sides (figure D). Extend the lines using a straight-edge.Cut out the four shapes at the band saw (figure E). The additional pieces will be glued on later, during the overall glue-up.
Another step before glue-up is the sculpting of the interior walls of the box. This will add dimension to the inside of the box, but it's easier to do this step now, before the box is assembled. To carve and shape, use a power grinder with arbor-tech blade installed. The three carbide teeth of this tool allows a smooth, sweeping action to remove wood quickly (figure F).Sculpt to about 1/2" from all three edges and from the dado.Use a long straight-edge and ruler to periodically check the depth of the cut (figure G) as you carve out the center.
Grind the shape down to within about 1/4" of the target-depth of 1-1/4" deep in the center. Then switch to a disc-sander, with 24-grit paper, to smooth out the rough shape (figure H). Use a feathering motion, going from the edges toward the center, to avoid the risk of cutting outside the lines.Repeat the grinding process with all four sides of the box.Before glue-up, use a brad-driver to insert three small brads into each leg. Snip off the tops of the brads (figure I), leaving a tiny nub exposed. During the glue-up, the clipped brads will help prevent the additional leg-stock from slipping out of registration.
For assembly and glue-up, use slow-setting plastic-resin glue to allow for plenty of assembly time. Apply glue to the slots and biscuits, then to the dado.Gradually assemble the pieces of the box, including the plywood bottom-panel (figures J and K). Use a dead-blow hammer to tap the pieces together.
Trace on the shape of the additional leg-stock, and apply resin glue to both the box and leg. Position the leg-stock (figure L) and secure with small clamps. Repeat for all four legs.With all of the box pieces in position, pull the joints tight with clamps (figure M).
While the glue cures on the box, you can return to working on the top. At the 14" band-saw, and using a 1/4" blade, trim off the excess stock around the head and tail (figure N).Next, transfer the lines from the template to delineate where the box meets the top (figure O). Using these lines, you can begin to sculpt out a concave shape, similar to the ones carved in the inside faces of the box.
As before, use the power-grounder with arbor-tech blade installed to carve away the material from the bottom side of the lid (figure P).For accuracy, measure the depth as you carve. Once complete, the depth should be about 2-3/4" at the center (figure Q).
Finally, use the disc sander with 24-grit sandpaper to feather and smooth the surface (figure R). Continue smoothing until the surface matches the interior walls of the box.
RESOURCES :
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
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