| Woodworking Basics and Building a Sawhorse |
From "Woodworking"
episode DIW-101 |
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Wood Selection DIY Woodworking host Bruce Johnson discusses some of the types of wood used for woodworking, their key characteristics and the methods used for grading wood. Common pine (figure A), though not considered fine wood, is one of the most frequently used woods. It's found in the frameworks of houses, in floors and in furniture. Pine is softwood--a wood that comes from needle-bearing trees. Softwoods are less durable than hardwoods, but they're lighter and easier to work with. Some of the more familiar hardwoods are oak, cherry, walnut and mahogany. Hardwoods are generally heavier and more dense and have a more dramatic grain pattern than softwoods. Since they generally cost more than softwood of the same grade, hardwoods are often reserved for fine flooring, cabinetry and furniture. A popular wood, oak is frequently used for floors and kitchen cabinets. It's native to North America and readily available. Its dramatic grain pattern shows up well when stained. Mahogany (figure B), an imported hardwood, has been used for centuries because it's easy to work with and carve. Most antiques in the Chippendale style are made from mahogany. Cherry has been called New England mahogany because it has a reddish color similar to mahogany's. Because cherry grows slowly, it's often available only in relatively narrow widths. A lighter band of sap wood (figure C) frequently appears along the edge of cherry boards. Sap wood is new growth and doesn't stain well. When measuring cherry for fine woodworking, exclude the sap-wood portions. Walnut (figure D) has long been popular as a fine hardwood, but it's rapidly becoming more scarce and expensive. Today it's primarily used for furniture. The cost of a piece of wood is generally influenced more by grade than variety. For example, a clear-pine board may cost more than a piece of walnut that's filled with knots and imperfections. Grading is based on the number of defects per board. The most common defects are knots--scars left from the growth of branches. "Select" boards are virtually knot-free, and they generally command a premium price. Boards with knots are called "common." Boards graded as #1 and #2 common have what are termed "tight" knots (figure E), which don't usually cause structural problems but don't stain well. Boards graded as #3 and #4 common (figure F) are the roughest and contain the most defects, such as open knotholes and insect damage. Most home-improvement centers are heavily stocked with softwoods such as pine, fir and cedar, with a limited selection of select oak and poplar. To find finer woods such as cherry and mahogany, you may need to look for specialty hardwood shops that cater to woodworkers and cabinetmakers. They're likely to stock lumber such as walnut, maple, ash and more exotic woods, usually of premium select grade. Select hardwoods are generally sold "in the rough"--the condition in which the boards are shipped from the sawmill to the drying kiln before they're planed smooth. A "four-quarter" board is one that's 1" thick before planing. A five-quarter board is 1 1/4" thick. Each time boards pass through a planer, their thickness is reduced. When you buy from a specialty hardwood shop, you can specify the lumber's exact thickness. Basic Power Tools for Woodworking Always wear proper safety equipment when using power tools. Safety glasses protect your eyes from flying debris, and ear protectors guard against hearing loss due to loud noise. If you're adding power tools to your workshop, consider the following: The circular saw (figure G) was designed to replace the handsaw, and it's a great labor-saving device. Circular saws are excellent for cutting rough boards or plywood to desired dimensions. When using a circular saw, you can adjust the depth of the cut. The proper depth is one that allows about 1/2" of the saw blade to extend below the bottom of the board being cut. This prevents the blade from binding and overheating. The table saw (figure H) is preferred for more precise cutting and fine woodwork and is useful for crosscutting and ripping boards. Most table saws have an adjustable fence and miter for cutting at angles. Carbide-tipped blades are recommended for both circular and table saws. They give clean cuts with less chipping and roughness along the edges. All saws leave some roughness on cut edges. A jointer (figure I) has razor-sharp blades that remove wood in very thin layers (e.g., 1/16"), smoothing rough edges. The old-fashioned equivalent to the jointer is a hand-plane, which requires a lot more effort and skill to use. The biscuit joiner (figure J) is used to join two pieces of wood with a much stronger joint that that held together by glue alone. The biscuit joiner cuts slots (figure K) in a board's edges, into which football-shaped wooden wafers are inserted and lined up with identical slots in the adjoining board, then glued in place. A battery-powered cordless drill (figure L) is one of the handiest tools in the shop. Use it to drill holes and, with a screw-bit attachment, to drive screws into wood. All woodworking tools are easier and safer to use when the wood is securely attached to a workbench or sawhorse with clamps. Building a Sawhorse/Workbench One of the most important tools for any wood shop is a good sawhorse--preferably a matched pair of them. Sturdy and dependable sawhorses, superior to most manufactured ones or those made from kits, are easy to build from lumber you may already have around the workshop. Note: Project Plans available using  Materials: #2 pine or pressure-treated pine lumber
(2" x 6", 2" x 4", 1" x 4", 1" x 2" scrap pieces, etc.)
3/4" plywood
Table saw
Battery-powered drill
Phillips screwdriver bit
Countersink
2-1/2" decking screws
Finish nails
Clamps
Safety glasses and ear protection When you custom-build a sawhorse, you can create one with the dimensions and features that best suit your needs. Don't hesitate to experiment with the dimensions and materials. Sawhorses may be made from almost any commonly available wood, from scrap lumber to expensive hardwood. The quality of wood should be based on the type of work it will be used for. Ordinary #2 pine is a good choice, but if you plan to use the sawhorses outdoors, choose rot-resistant pressure-treated pine, which is slightly more expensive. Whenever working with power tools, wear protective eyeglasses and ear protection, and follow all the manufacturer's safety recommendations. - To build a sawhorse like ours, begin by cutting a 2" by 6" to a length of 36" for the sawhorse top. Bevel the top board to accommodate the sawhorse's angled legs. Set your table saw at a 15-degree angle, and cut a slight bevel along the length of the board (figure M), then flip it over and do the same on the other side (figure N).
- Cut four 32" legs from 2" by 6" lumber. The legs should then be beveled to 15 degrees on each end--on top so that each leg will be flush with the top piece and on the bottom to give the sawhorse a firm footing (figure O).
- Attach the legs to the beveled top with 2-1/2" decking screws (figure P), which have good holding power and won't rust if they get wet. Use clamps, or enlist the help of an assistant, to hold the legs in place while attaching them. Drill pilot holes so the screws will be less likely to split the wood. Drive the screws by hand or with a power drill and a Phillips-head screwdriver attachment. Attach the legs about 4" from the end of the top piece (figure Q).
- Adding a tool shelf and braces makes the sawhorse both sturdier and more functional. A comfortable height for the shelf is around 14" from the floor. Hold a 1" by 4" board across the legs at a height of about 14", and mark it with a pencil (figure R), indicating how much to cut off and the angle for cutting. Following the pencil marks, cut off the excess wood. Once you've made the cut, check to be sure the fit is good (figure S), then use the piece as a template for the next three braces.
- Line up the first support with your pencil marks, and clamp it in place at both ends (figure T) to hold it while you attach it. Drill pilot holes, then secure the support by driving 1-1/2" screws. Repeat the process for the other braces.
- Once all four braces are in place, you can add the tool shelf. Cut a piece of plywood that will fit between the legs and rest atop the four braces (figure U) . Secure the shelf with finish nails.
- To make the shelf more useful, add a 1" by 2" lip to two of the sides (figure V) to prevent tools from vibrating off as you work. Leaving the ends open makes it easy to blow or brush off sawdust that falls onto the shelf.
- For a more useful work surface, add a top made of 3/4" plywood (figure W). The width of the top will vary according to its use, but it's best to make its length the same as that of the sawhorse so the top is supported at both ends. In this example, the plywood is cut to 9" by 36", leaving a small overhang on the sides.
- Attach the top with screws, which hold better than nails and make it easy to replace the top if necessary.
- Countersinking the screws so that their heads are below the wood's surface will prevent them from scratching your work projects. To countersink the screws, first drill pilot holes for each screw. Then use a countersink (figure X) or a larger drill bit to cut an indentation in which the screw head will fit.
Customize your sawhorse as needed--wrapping the top in carpeting for use with delicate antiques, drilling holes in the top to hold screwdrivers or pliers or adding attachments to hold hammers and other frequently used tools. Sponsored Resource
Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
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