DIY Network

Turning the Goblet From "Woodturning Basics" episode DWTN-103

A 1" spindle gouge, a parting tool, a chuck and a 1/2" spindle gouge are used to shape the goblet.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G

Steps:

1. Mount a cherry blank on the lathe (Note: Lathe speed is 1,200 RPM.). It should be mounted off-center (figure A), because right at the center there are little cracks running through a tree, and you don't want them running through the stem when it's turned.

2. Use a 1" spindle gouge to remove the bark from the wood (figure B). This tool is big and heavy, which is good, since off-center wood means a wobbly turn. Start to remove the bark from one corner in slow, even pieces. If you start in the middle, you might break off a big piece of bark that can fly off and cause injuries.

3. Once the bark is off, continue turning, keeping the 1" gouge perpendicular to the wood and controlling the tool with body motion as the cylinder is shaped (figure C).

4. Next, Hout decides how much length is needed for the goblet, then goes into the wood to make a cut that forms a tenon to hold the wood in the chuck (figure D). The length of the goblet, plus a little bit more, is needed to have room to cut the tenon.

5. A parting tool is used to make the tenon. This tool acts like a saw and makes a straight cut ridge that will be the tenon.

6. The tool goes right in beside the tenon and opens it up so it doesn't grab the tool. Take this area down to the point where the excess base of wood can be removed (figure E).

7. Remove the goblet cylinder from the lathe and mount it in the chuck.

8. Switch to a 1/2" spindle gouge with a fingernail grind (figure F). The pointed end of the tool makes it easier to get inside tight areas of the wood and gives more detail than a larger tool would allow.

9. Remove some wood at the bottom to have a place for the tool to cut into the wood (figure G). Place the tool on, get the bevel contact, bring it up until the point cuts, then roll the tool and raise the handle to come around to form the bead shape. It's tricky to keep the bevel on the wood at just the right cutting angle. The bevel is the working end of the tool, with the ridge controlling the actual cutting. The trick is to keep the edge riding the wood while it's being turned.
   

	Figure H
	Figure I
	A view of a finished goblet with a partially finished one in the background.