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  • Captive Ring and Finishing Touches
  • From "Woodturning Basics"
    episode DWTN-103


    The captive ring and stem are formed, then the goblet is sanded and finished with varnish.
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    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Finished ring.
    Steps:

    1. Use the gouge as a measuring device for deciding where to start the stem, by inserting it into the goblet, then measuring this length down the outside of the goblet to determine where the base of the cup is on the outside of the goblet. Also, check to make sure that the sides of the goblet are uniform before starting the stem (figure A).

    2. As the stem is formed, a raised ridge develops about midway down the stem. This is the beginning of the captive ring. Roll the tool the same way it was rolled to form the cup, while raising the handle to come around to form the bead shape. Maintain a gentle touch during this step.

    3. To finish the ring and cut it loose from the stem, use a captive ring tool (figure B). Its only purpose is to give life to the ring. Don't go straight in to prevent having a flat bottom on the ring: work instead using a curving motion on both sides of the ridge. Again, use a gentle touch -- force is not needed here.


    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Stem area of the goblet.
    PHOTO

    Figure D
    PHOTO

    Finished goblet.
    Narrowing the Stem and Completing the Base

    1. Continue with the 1/2" spindle gouge, turning the stem (figure C), always keeping the bevel in contact with the wood.

    2. Basic shaping or touchups need to be finished before the wood becomes too thin, since it quickly becomes pretzel-thin and can break quite easily at this point.

    3. Lightly sand the stem area, using the same 100-, 150- and 220-grit sandpapers that were used on the goblet.

    4. The base of the goblet should be about the same size as the top or slightly smaller, but never larger, which would make the goblet look too heavy. Take the tool point and begin to cut in. If this step isn't done this way, the parting tool can break the fibers and leave a rough edge on the base.

    5. Continue with the parting tool until the base is separated from the blank (figure D) -- and you have the finished goblet.

      Tip: Remember, this is delicate work and takes real concentration -- too much pressure, and it's back to the woodpile.


  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: