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  • Bruce Johnson Interview: Cutting Laminates, Chisel Storage, Sandpaper and more
  • From "Ask DIY Home Improvement"
    episode DADH-103


    Bruce Johnson Interview: Cutting Laminates, Chisel Storage, Sandpaper and more

    Janette: Homeowners from all over the country have been sending in email questions. I'm joined by author and woodworking expert Bruce Johnson who's here to answer some of your questions.
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    Question (from Jeannie in Newark, New Jersey) : Is there a correct way to fold sandpaper? I always seem to waste too many sheets in my woodworking projects.

    Bruce : It's easy to waste sandpaper if you're just trying to fold it and tear it by hand. Many sanding blocks and finishing sanders are designed to use a quarter sheet of standard size sandpaper which is 8-1/2"x11". Measure your sanding block to make sure that you cut your sandpaper accurately to the proper size. Some woodworkers use an old pair of scissors cut the sandpaper into smaller pieces to make it easier to handle. You can also fold the sandpaper into smaller pieces and then when one side wears out, you can rotate it to a fresh side. One note though: Don’t fold the paper so two abrasive sides are touching; you’ll wear out the paper while using it.

    Question (from Jeff in Minneapolis, Minnesota) : How can I cut plastic laminate without chipping the top finish?

    Bruce : Laminates -- whether plastic or wood -- do pose a problem when it comes to cutting. Typically you'll be using a saber-saw for this king of cutting. Regular saber-saw blades cut on the upstroke and can pull the veneer or laminate away from the core and chip the top face of plastic laminate. To prevent the chip-out, use a special reverse-cut saber-saw blade. The teeth on these special blades point down so, with each stroke, the veneer isn't being pulled away from the core. This helps eliminate chipping. You can find these "down-cutting" blades at most hardware stores and tool outlets

    Question (from Keith in Ft. Lauderdale, FL) : Do you have any advice on how to store my chisels?

    Bruce : Storing chisels properly is important because a dull chisel is a dangerous tool. You definitely don't want to store these loose in your toolbox. The chisels have no protection and will get dull a lot faster. The best thing to do is to slip some foam insulation into a too-box. Then you'll need some foam insulation. Put the foam into the box and push the chisels down into the foam to store them. When the foam starts looking a little worse for wear, simply flip it over and use the other side. In your workshop, you may want to store your chisels in a bracket that mounts to a wall or pegboard. This protects the tips from getting nicked or dulled.
    Bruce's Woodworking Tip: Hammering Brad Nails

    This is a little trick I use all the time in my workshop. Small brad nails are hard to hold onto and hammer, and often you end up hitting your fingers. To avoid this problem I poke the nail through the end of a strip of stiff paper or cardboard two or three inches long before nailing. The cardboard strip serves as a handle to position and hold the nail in place as you hammer. Once you drive the nail in, simply pull the paper up and you can re-use it. Not only will this save you time trying to nail into the right spot, but it will also save your fingers.


    RESOURCES :

    The Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking
    Author: Lonnie Bird, Andy Rae and Gary Rogowski
    Publisher: Taunton
    ISBN: 1561586021

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    The Wood Finisher: How to Finish Everything, From Decks to Floors to Doors
    0345372972
    Bruce Johnson
    Ballantine Books (November 1993)
    To order this title from Amazon, click here.

    The Weekend Refinisher:
    How to Make the Most of Your Furniture-A Step-by-Step Guide

    Author: Bruce E. Johnson
    Publisher: Ballantine Books
    ISBN: 034535866X

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