| Mahogany China Display -- Shelves and Curved Side-Supports |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-113 |
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With the frame and back panel made and assembled, the shelves cut and trim installed on the shelves, the next phase in the china-display project is to attach the shelves. Later, curved side-supports are fashioned out of African wengae and attached to the shelf assembly.
Materials: Frame and back-panel assembly
Wengae stock for curved side-supports
MDF side-support templates
Table saw
Band saw
Oscillating spindle-sander
Table-router; 1/8" radius bit
Biscuit jointer; wood biscuits
Woodworker's glue
Quick-setting epoxy glue
Clamps
Doublestick tape
Chalk or carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his website -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.
Attaching the Shelves Steps:
- Measurements are taken from the frame and back panel in order to cut notches at the back corners of each of the shelves. The purpose of the notches is to ensure that the wengae along the side of each shelf (figure A) will sit flush along the wengae on the frame. In addition, the back of each shelf must sit flush against the mahogany back panel. A solid fit between the shelves and back-panel will help simplify the biscuit joinery that will be employed later.
- With accurate measurements taken, notches are cut at the back corners of each shelf using the table saw.
- With notches cut at the back of the shelves, measurements are taken to also cut notches at the front corners of each shelf -- to accept the curved side-supports that will be installed later. The MDF template that will later be used to cut the side-support pieces is used to mark the shelves for the notches to be cut in the front (figure B).
- The side-support pieces are to be mounted so that they are centered in the frame, and they will also be mounted so that they are 5/16" proud from the end of the shelves. Using those dimensions, the template is positioned on the shelves, and pencil lines are scribed to mark the locations of the cuts for the notches (figure C.
- With accurate measurements taken, notches are cut at the front corners of each shelf using the table saw (figure D).
- With the notches cut, the next step is to join the shelves to the back panel using the pencil marks laid out earlier. To join the shelves to the back panel, a biscuit jointer is used to cut slots into the back panel. The jointer is set to zero in order to use the smallest possible biscuits. This will ensure that the biscuit slots aren't cut all the way through the back of the plywood panel. With a straightedge clamped in place to ensure accurate alignment, the biscuit jointer is used to cut five slots in the back panel for each shelf (figure E). Using five biscuits per shelf will help distribute the weight load over the entire length of each shelf.
- After all of the slots have been cut in the back panel, matching slots are cut into the back edge of each of the three shelves (figure F).
- Yellow woodworker's glue is applied to the slots (figure G) and the wooden biscuits.
- With glue applied, the shelves are attached to the back of the china display (figure H).
- Each of the shelves is clamped firmly into position (figure I).
- The clamped assembly (figure J) is left undisturbed until the glue dries.
The Curved Side-Supports Once the glue has dried on the shelves, work can begin creating the curved ornamental side-supports that tie the edges of the shelves into the frame. Steps:
- The curved MDF template for the side-support is laid out on a piece of wengae stock (figure K) and fixed in position using doublestick tape.
- With the template secured in position, the wengae stock is taken to the band saw, where it will carefully be cut to make the side support (figure L) using the template as a guide.
- Once the wengae piece has been cut to the curved profile of the template, an oscillating spindle-sander is used to shape the rough edges (figure M). The spindle-sander is ideal for working with narrow pieces of wood such as the side pieces since grinding action of the spindle is not likely to break the fragile piece of wood. It's also well suited for working on curved pieces since the curve on the sanding spindle matches the curved profile of the wood. Finally, the oscillating action of the spindle is less likely to leave scallop-marks than a drum sander.
- The cut side piece is left affixed to the MDF template, which serves as a guide for shaping the wood (figure N). The wengae is sanded until it is flush with the template.
- Once sanding is complete, the edges of the side supports are rounded off using a 1/8" radius bit on the table router (figure O).
- Chalk marks on the wood indicates the sides that are not to be rounded (figure P) -- where the supports will join the shelves.
- The completed side-supports are taped into position along the fronts of the shelves, and measurements are taken for holes to accommodate the brass dowels (figure Q ) that will help secure the side pieces and ensure that china pieces won't slip off the ends of the shelves. It's important, when laying out the positions of the dowels, that they are situated in a flat spot on the side-support so that they won't be angled.
- Once the layout marks are in place, holes are drilled in the frame for the brass dowels (figure R).
- Once the holes are drilled, the side supports can be glued in place using quick-setting epoxy glue.
- Once the epoxy has hardened, holes are drilled into the side supports. The holes are drilled so that they toe-in at an angle (figure S).
- Brass pins are driven into the holes (figure T) to tie the supports securely to the shelves.
In the final segment, some finishing touches are added to the china display, as well as a dark wood stain. Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
The Complete Woodworker's Companion
Author: Roger Holmes
Publisher: Watson-Guptill
ISBN: 0823008665
The Complete Book of Wood Joinery
Author: Robert J. Decristoforo
Publisher: Sterling Publishing Co.
ISBN: 0806999500
Advanced Woodworking
Model: 0783539126
Author: Editors of Time Life Books
1998
Time-Life Books Inc.
Website: www.timelife.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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