| Mahogany Wine Rack -- Template and Stock |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-203 |
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In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds a sturdy, wall-mountable mahogany wine rack. The construction features wine bins arranged in a honeycomb design. The exposed front edges of the bins and case are banded with black walnut (figure A). Though visually simple, this functional piece is constructed with an emphasis on stability and strength. The construction makes use of some advanced techniques in biscuit joinery. It also employs the use of templates and a pre-engineered design. Preparation of Wood Stock and Template The project can be functionally divided into two phases: the inner honeycomb structure and the outside case. The key ingredient to this project is the template, but since the layout of the design is critical to the strength and character of the finished rack, the project begins with a diagram (figure B) and some carefully thought-out planning. Materials: Mahogany and black-walnut stock
MDF and plywood for template
Table saw
Band saw
Drum sander
Table router; flush-bearing bit
Table saw; pressure rollers; cross-cut sled
Hand-saw
Yellow wood-glue
Glue roller
Clamps
Straight-edge; compass
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc. Steps:
- The template is based on the initial design, and is constructed from 1/2-inch MDF and plywood. The plywood strips framing the template represent the outside of the case. The MDF, marked according to the plans (figure C), basically serves as a jig to ensure that all of the parts will fit together -- a "map" or guide for cutting and assembling the pieces so that the elements fit properly, and the corners are square. The outside of the case is 46 inches in length, so the stock can be cut from a single piece of 4x8 mahogany plywood.
- To lay out the diamond-shaped grids onto the template, some basic geometry is employed. Since the shelves are symmetrical, find the center-point of each diamond that touches the case, then use a compass to draw a circle that is the thickness of the boards (figure D).
- Next, using the circles as guides, draw out the 45-degree angles of the honeycomb (figure E) to determine the height of the case and dimensions of the internal boxes.
- With the dimensions determined and the template laid out, you can begin prepping your materials. For our demonstration, 3/4-inch Honduras mahogany plywood was used. The ends of the case pieces are capped with Honduras mahogany (figure F) to blend with the rest of the stock. The exposed edges front edges of the cut plywood will be capped with black walnut. The mahogany stock is milled first -- cut into strips 1/16-inch on the band-saw (figure G).
- Once cut, the stock is run through the drum sander (figure H) to bring it to its final dimension.
- Next, the mahogany-stock strips are glued to the ends of the mahogany plywood, clamped secure and left to dry.
- Once it's dry, the end-caps are trimmed even with the plywood surfaces using the flush-bearing bit on the router table (figure I).
- With the mahogany capped and flush-trimmed, the front edges can be banded using the black walnut. The walnut stock is cut into strips 3/16-inch thick, and passed through the drum sander to bring it to its final thickness.
- The walnut banding is then glued to the front edges of the mahogany plywood, and clamped secure as the glue dries. The stock is glued up in longer lengths for efficiency (figure J). Later, the long stock pieces will be cut into shorter sections to form the inside elements of the wine rack.
- Tip: By facing two pieces of stock together, and keeping the walnut strips on the inside (figure K), fewer clamps are needed. Gluing time is reduced as well.
- Tip: Use shim stock underneath the plywood (figure L) to ensure that the walnut banding overhangs the plywood evenly. The excess banding material will be flush-trimmed later, after the glue has dried.
- Once the glue dries, trim away any excess length of banding with a hand-saw, and remove the excess width of banding on the table router (figure M) using a flush-bearing bit.
- Next, install a radius bit on the router to round over the edges of the walnut banding (figure N). (Note: The last few steps apply only to the stock that will be used for the honeycomb inner portion. The stock for the case will be prepared later in the process.)
- Rather than having a flat, flush front on the rack, the construction of the finished piece features a three-dimensional stair-step effect resulting from the diagonals being set back from the edges of the case. The diagonals running at one angle are set back 1/4-inch from the front, and those running in the opposing angle are set back 1/4-inch further (figure O). To achieve this effect, the stock pieces must be cut to three separate widths using the table saw. Pressure-rollers are used to hold the boards firmly against the table saw (figure P) as the cuts are made, and prevent kick-back.
- With the long diagonals measured against the template, they can be cut to length on the table saw. In the finished rack, the honeycomb elements will sit at a 45-degree angle, so the edges of those elements must also be cut at that angle. A cross-cut sled is used, with the saw-blade set at a 45-degree angle, to make the cuts that will allow the diagonal elements to sit flush against the inside of the case (figure Q).
- The long diagonal elements are cut on the table saw -- slightly oversized so they can be shaved down to a snug fit in the frame. Once those elements are all cut and laid out in the template (figure R), measurements are taken for cutting the short elements. The short diagonals are all cut the exact same dimensions. A snug fit will maintain symmetry and strength in the finished rack.
- To minimize error when cutting the mahogany stock, spacers are cut to fit precisely in the template between the long diagonals (figure S). The precise measurement from these spacers will then be used to cut the short pieces.
- A stop-block is used to batch-cut all of the pieces to the same length at the table saw.
- Once all the pieces have been cut, the honeycomb structure is dry-fit to ensure all the pieces fit together precisely (figure T).
- Each plywood element is marked on the edge with a letter and an arrow (figure U) that correspond to letters and arrows on the template and diagram. These markings are essential to avoid confusion during the joinery and assembly process.
In the segment that follows, biscuit joinery is used to assemble the honeycomb structure forming the symmetrical wine-storage bays. Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
The Complete Woodworker's Companion
Author: Roger Holmes
Publisher: Watson-Guptill
ISBN: 0823008665
The Complete Book of Wood Joinery
Author: Robert J. Decristoforo
Publisher: Sterling Publishing Co.
ISBN: 0806999500
Advanced Woodworking
Model: 0783539126
Author: Editors of Time Life Books
1998
Time-Life Books Inc.
Website: www.timelife.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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