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  • Walnut Display Stand -- Wengae Accents and Beveled Edges
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-209
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    The top and bottom caps are cut from dark wengae hardwood.

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    As a design feature, the wengae top caps are cut slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M

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    Figure N

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    Figure O

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    Figure P

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    Figure Q

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    Figure R

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    Figure S

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    Figure T

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    Figure U

    With the legs and mitered shelf-frames made, the next phase in the display-stand project involves creating some of the visual accents that give the piece both strength and style. Those include the dark wengae accents for the top and bottom of each leg, and beveled edges on the oak components. After that, final assembly on the piece can begin.



    Materials:

    Wengae stock
    Table saw
    Table router;
    45-degree bevel bit; 1/4-inch bevel bit; finger board
    Plunge router
    Doweling jigs
    Dowel centers
    Hand drill
    Drill press
    Band clamp
    Slow-setting glue
    Clamps
    Corner blocks
    Carpenter's square
    Tape measure
    Carpenter's pencil
    Masking tape
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources.

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.



    Wengae Accents and Beveled Edges


    Steps:


    1. To make the wengae caps that accent the tops and bottoms of the legs, cut the wengae stock to width on the table saw (figure A).



    2. Next, cut each piece to length (figure B). The top pieces are cut 3 inches square, and 1/2-inch thick. The bottom pieces are cut 3-1/4 inches square, and 3/4-inch thick. The difference in size will add visual interest to the finished piece.



    3. Once the stock is cut, shape the top and bottom caps at the router table using a 45-degree bevel bit. It's a good idea to use a finger board to hold the wengae in place (figure C).



    4. Since the wengae is a very hard wood, make the bevels in two passes to avoid chip-out (figure D).



    5. Once the wengae caps have been shaped, add some shaping to the legs and shelves to soften the edges and add visual dimension to the display stand. Starting with the legs, at the router table, use a 1/4-inch bevel bit to make a bevel cut along the outside corners of the legs.



    6. Then use a plunge router and the same1/4-inch bevel bit to cut along the inside and outside edges. The finished legs will have nicely beveled corners (figure E).



    7. Next, use the table router to shape and soften both sides of the shelf-frames using the 1/4-inch bit. When making the cuts, stop short of the corners (figure F) since the corners will attach to the legs.



    8. With all the bevel cuts made, the wengae caps can be attached to the legs using dowels for the joinery. To make certain that all of the holes are drilled properly, a doweling jig is used. The jig is made so that it can fit on both sides of the legs at both the top and bottom of each leg. Referencing off of the inside corner (figure G) will ensure that all of the holes will line up precisely.



    9. To drill the holes in the leg, slide the jig in place and clamp it securely. Then drill the holes in the ends of the leg stock using a hand-drill (figure H ). A piece of masking tape as a reference on the drill bit ensures uniform depth for all of the holes.



    10. To make certain that the holes will line up on the wengae caps, another wooden jig is made, and used in conjunction with metal dowel-centers. The jig is made for both the top and bottom caps. For the smaller, top piece, wedges and a shim are used to secure it into position (figure I).



    11. Tip: Pay attention to the direction of the grain pattern on the wengae caps, and install them so that the grain runs consistently in the same direction for each.



    12. Next, place the metal dowel-centers in the leg stock (figure J) and position the leg over the wengae, using the jig as a guide (figure K).



    13. Dropping the leg sharply down onto the wengae (figure L) will make the marks that will be used to drill the holes for the dowels.



    14. When placing the smaller, top caps into the jig, use spacers on the side of the jig (figure M) to hold the leg out an extra 1/8-inch when making the marks for the dowel holes.



    15. At the drill press, use the scoring marks as the center to drill the holes for the dowels in the wengae caps (figure N).






    Glue-Up and Assembly


    With all of the parts finished, the assembly can be dry-fit to ensure that all the parts fit precisely. A band clamp can be used to hold the dry-fit assembly together (figure O). Once you're certain of a good fit for all of the parts, glue-up can begin.

    Gluing Tip: On a complex glue-up like this one, use a slow-setting glue to allow enough time to make any necessary adjustments.

    Gluing Tip: Use masking tape around the joints to capture squeeze-out and make clean-up easier.



    • Begin the glue-up with the stand on its side. Apply slow-setting glue into the dados on two of the legs (figure P). Apply the glue only into the dados.



    • Set the frames into the dados, and gently tap them into place if necessary.



    • Apply glue to the dados on the other two legs, and set the legs into place (figure Q).



    • To hold the whole assembly together, wrap it with a band clamp (figure R).



    • For the final stage of the glue-up, stand the assembly upright. Attach clamps to the top and bottom frames of the stand.



    • Once the top and bottom frames are clamped securely, remove the band clamp from the center section and add clamps at each of the frame corners (figure S).



    • Corner blocks help prevent the wood from being marred by the clamps, and they provide a flat surface for the clamps to grab onto (figure T).



    • With the assembly clamped together, use a square to make certain that all of the corners are perfectly square (figure U).



    • Because a slow-setting glue is being used, any necessary adjustments can now be made to square up the structure.




    In the segment that follows, the caps are installed, and a wood finish is applied.

    Sponsored Resource
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    RESOURCES :

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
    Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561580619


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
    Author: Mark Duginske
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 0942391985

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

    Popular Woodworking
    F & W Publications, Inc.
    Website: www.popularwoodworking.com

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