| Circular Kitchen Table -- Pedestal Base |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-211 |
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Base-Pedestal Center Post With the circular tabletop completed, the center pedestal support -- including the bridle joinery that will be used to connect the pedestal to the cross-supports -- are made using solid black-walnut. The support for the tabletop is made up of three separate constructions: - The bottom cross-supports that will rest on the floor (figure A) are four inches wide.
- The center post is laminated from three pieces of 1-3/4-inch black walnut, and has bridle joinery at the top (figure B) and bottom (figure C).
- The top cross-support is three inches wide, and attaches to the bridle joinery at the top of the post (figure D). The tabletop will be attached to the top cross-support later using figure-8 metal fasteners
Note: For the table's support (seen right, above), the top cross-supports are 1-3/4-inches thick, which matches the dimension of the notches in the post. The support pieces are all 40 inches in length. The top stock is 3 inches wide, while the bottom stock is 4 inches wide for added stability. Materials: walnut stock
table saw
band saw
drill press; Forstner bit
cabinet-maker's scribe
chisel
clamps
yellow woodworker's glue; glue roller
chalk or carpenter's pencil
safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Website--information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc. Steps: - Building the support system for the table begins with the center post. The first step is to cut the two outside pieces of the center-post to length at the table saw.
- With the stock for the two outer pieces cut and milled to length, width and thickness, lay out measurements for the notches that will create the bridle joints. Find the center-point on the ends of the stock, measure down three inches, and scribe line across the width of the piece. Next, use a cabinet-maker's scribe to scribe cut lines (figure E) on each side of the stock. Mark the center section with X's to indicate the portion that will be cut out. The piece being cut out is 1-3/4 inches wide -- a width that matches the thickness of the stock that will be used for the cross-supports.
- The top notch is cut 3 inches deep. The bottom notch is cut 4 inches deep to allow for the thicker bottom supports that will provide additional strength and stability. Using the band saw, make the cuts for the 3-inch notches at the top of the stock (figure F).
- Next, re-set the stop block to make the 4-inch cuts for the notches on the bottom of the side pieces.
- At the drill press, use a 1-3/4-inch Forstner bit to drill away the excess stock (figure G).
- Use a sharp chisel to clean up the bridle joints and make them square (figure H).
- With the bridle joints cut, take a measurement between the notches (figure I) to get the exact dimension for the center piece. In our demonstration, the measurement was 21 inches.
- Once you have the exact measurement, cut the center-piece to that length using the table saw.
- With all of the stock cut, do a dry-fit to check the alignment of the center post with the outer pieces. It's critical that the notches line up flat and flush with the center stock (figure J). An exact alignment at this point will eliminate the need for chiseling later on.
- With the stock cut, and the alignment of the elements checked, glue-up can begin. Apply a generous amount to the surfaces (figure K), and spread it evenly using a glue roller.
- With the glue applied, stack the stock pieces together (figure L).
- To help achieve precise alignment during glue-up, blocks of scrap wood are milled to the exact thickness of the cross-support stock. The blocks are inserted tapped into the notches (figure M) to help force the three pieces of stock into exact alignment. The blocks are first treated with wax to ensure that they won't stick to the glue.
- With the stock pieces aligned and the blocks inserted in the notches, clamping pressure is applied evenly, all the way around the assembly (figure N). Leave the clamps in place until the glue dries.
The Cross-Support Stock With the post assembled, work can begin prepping the cross-supports. Begin by ripping two long boards 3 inches wide for the top, and two boards 4 inches wide for the bottom. - With the stock cut to length, run each piece through the planer to cut surfaces that are parallel and flat.
- At the table saw, trim all of the stock to the same length.
- With the support stock all cut to size, lay out marks to cut the half-lap joints that will join the cross stretchers. First fine the center point, and scribe a line 7/8-inch on either side (figure O). This allows for the 1-3/4 inch thickness of the wood. The notches will be 1-1/2 inches deep on the top stretchers, and 2 inches deep on the bottom stretchers.
- At the table saw, incrementally notch away the stock (figure P) to create the half-lap joints.
- To complete the joinery for the supports, clean out the notches using a sharp chisel.
In the segment that follows, the cross-support pieces are assembled to complete the pedestal. Sponsored Resource You can order the tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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