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| Coopered Glass-Top Table: Assembling the Columns |
From "Wood Works" episode WWK-509 |
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With the, jarrah stock milled and angle-cut to form the staves for the coopered base, assembly of the base columns can begin. First, the staves are glued together to form the two curved columns. Biscuit joinery is used to prevent slippage in the staves. Once the glue-up is complete, a special jig is then created to cut the angles on the ends columns -- allowing them to lean inward and to support the flat glass-top.This demonstration shows the steps involved in assembling, cutting and shaping one of the two columns. Simply repeat the steps identically to make the second column.
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 Figure A
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 Figure B
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 Figure C
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 Figure D
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 Figure E
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 Figure F
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 Figure G
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 Figure H
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 Figure I
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Materials:Table saw Jointer Biscuit joiner Wood biscuits Band saw Jig saw Random-orbital disc sander Hand scraper Straight-edge Carpenter's pencil Carpenter's tape Yellow woodworker's glue Glue roller and glue brushes Clamps Safety glasses or goggles Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc. Assembling the Columns When gluing up long-grain to long-grain, joinery is typically not required. However, for coopering, some joinery may be needed to prevent slippage. For our curved base columns, biscuit joinery is used to keep the staves aligned. - Mark the staves for the locations of the biscuit slots. We positioned ours with one slot 6 inches down from the top, one 6 inches up from the bottom and one directly in the center of each stave (figure A).
- The exceptions are the end staves of each column that will later be tapered. Since each column will taper from 18 inches at the bottom to 14 inches at the top, removing the extra stock would expose the joinery. Mark the end staves for each column as a reminder not to cut slots in these pieces.
- Set the fence of the biscuit cutter to match the 4-degree angle-cut on the edge of each stave. Following your layout marks, cut the slots (figure B) and position each cut so that it's centered in the thickness of the stock.
- Because biscuits are being used, each column can be glued up in two halves. Angled cauls will help to maximize clamping pressure by creating two parallel sides for the clamps to hold onto during glue-up. Before glue-up, conduct a dry-fit using the angled cauls and clamps (figure C). Once you've conducted a successful dry-fit, you can begin glue-up.
- Use a glue-roller to apply yellow glue to one side of each stave (figure D). Also apply glue to each of the biscuits and set them into the slots.
- Roll glue onto the other side of each stave and insert glued biscuits into the remaining slots (figure E).
- Add the angle-cut cauls to the outside of the assembly, and apply good horizontal clamping pressure to form the curve. Where the biscuits were omitted on the top of the two outside, add vertical clamps to hold those two staves aligned (figure F).
- Once the two halves have dried, glue the two sections together using more glue and biscuits (figure G).
- With the pressure of the clamps, there may be a tendency for the two halves to bow upward. To prevent this, set a long caul along the seam and apply downward clamping pressure (figure H).
- Once the caul and clamps are in position, let the clamped assembly cure for several hours. Once it has dried, remove any excess glue using a hand scraper (figure I).
Angling and Shaping the Columns- A series of finishing cuts are made to create the angles necessary for the tilt of the columns and support of the flat glass-top. A cut along the bottom of each column creates the inward tilt. Another along the top allows the glass to sit flat. Additional cuts along the sides provide the tapering shape. Finally, a decorative cove cut will be made along the edges.
- First, the angle-cuts are made along the bottom edge of the base (figure J).
- To help find the precise angle-cut, we made a full-scale drawing and constructed a mockup of poplar and plywood (figure K). From this mockup, we determined that the angle will be 13 degrees. The mockup also helps determine the lengths of the three copper pipes that will join the two columns together.
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 Figure L
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 Figure M
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 Figure N
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 Figure O
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 Figure P
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 Figure Q
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 Figure R
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The angled cuts on the base pieces cannot be made on the table saw since the height of the arc is taller than the saw blade. For that reason, the cuts are made using the band saw.For accuracy and safety, we made a custom jig to cradle the large pieces as the cuts are made at the band saw. The jig extends the band-saw bed and supports the weight of the column with its 2x4 legs. The bed is tilted so that the saw blade cuts the column at the 13-degree angle that's needed (figure L).Tip: For cutting this large, heavy piece, be sure that your band-saw blade is sharp. Also, apply a dry lubricant to the bed to help reduce friction and ensure a clean cut. Once the first cut is made, stand the base upright and clamp it to the top of the assembly table. With the column supported in this way, measurements can be taken for the final height. Because the column stands at an angle, use a square to correctly measure the 29-1/2-inch height and mark the position of the top cut (figure M).Place the column back on the jig, this time with the concave side pointing down (figure N), and cut the top angle parallel with the bottom cut. Make the cut about 1/8-inch oversize. (The excess will be hand-sanded away later.)Now you can lay out the marks for the side tapers. First, at the top end, measure in 2 inches from each edge, then use a long straight-edge to scribe the taper line (figure O).Use a jig saw to cut the taper just shy of the cut line (figure P).Remove the saw marks and flatten the edges of the column using the jointer (figure Q).Finally, use a random-orbit disc sander to smooth the curves both inside and out (figure R). Use the sander to remove the facets -- the high and low points where the staves connect to each other -- to make the curve appear as one solid surface.In the segment that follows, work continues on shaping the column, and the copper pipe that will join the two columns gets an artistic patina.
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