DIY Network

Safety Alert: Always wear protective gloves, and ensure adequate ventilation, when working with stains, solvents and other toxic chemical solutions.

• To join the two halves of the base, we used three lengths of common copper plumbing-pipe. We used 1-1/8-inch, type-L copper piping. (Type-L is slightly thicker than type-M.)

• Use a pipe cutter to cut the three pieces of pipe to length (figure E).

• For our table the longest pipe is 27-7/8 inches long, the next is 26-3/8 inches, and the shortest is 24-3/4 inches (figure F).

• To install the pipes, the holes in the base pieces must be drilled so that the pipes are parallel to the floor. This is challenging since the columns lean in at an angle of 13 degrees.

• For drilling the holes, tilt the bed of the drill-press to 13 degrees and clamp on an extension bed (figure G). Add a stop and two spacers. Because the sides have been tapered, the column won't lay parallel to the bed. Cut a curved block of scrap wood to slide underneath the curved surface of the column to raise it up, then measure both ends to make sure that the column is parallel to the bed.

• To ensure that the holes line up properly, we made a jig out of 2x4s.

• Reference the jig off the bottom edge of the column and clamp it in place for drilling the holes. In this way, you can be certain that the holes on both halves of the base match. Drill the three holes in each half of the base using a 1-1/8-inch Forstner bit (figure H). The first hole measures 17-1/2 inches up from the bottom edge, while the others are spaced 2-1/4 inches apart.
  

  	Figure I
  	Figure J
  	Figure K

• To prepare the copper pipes for the chemical patina treatment, sand off the oxidation with some 320-grit sandpaper, and gradually work up to 600-grit (figure I). Burnish the surface with 0000-gauge steel wool.

• To create the patina finish, three separate chemicals are used: ferric nitrate, potassium dichromate and cupric nitrate. Ferric nitrate provides deep, purplish tones to the copper, while potassium dichromate renders orange hues and cupric nitrate creates mottled, green patterns. Prepare a separate solution of each using a teaspoon of crystals to 1 pint of hot water.

  Safety Alert: Use extreme caution when mixing these chemicals as they are toxic. Wear neoprene gloves, a charcoal respirator and eye protection.

• Before applying the chemicals, heat the surface of each pipe using a propane torch.

• Apply the chemicals using sea-sponges. Alternate between applying heat and sponging on the chemicals (figure J).

• The heated pipe allows the color to set quickly, creating a variegated effect that looks similar to polished marble or aged metal (figure K).
  

  	Figure L
  	Figure M
  	Figure N
  	Figure O

• To attach the pipes to the columns, use slow-curing epoxy glue. Rough up the ends of the pipes with coarse sandpaper to create a better surface for the glue to bond onto.

• Use carpenter's tape to protect the wood and the ends of the pipe. Coat the inside of the holes and the pipe-ends with epoxy (figure L).

• Set the pipe-ends into position in the holes (figure M).

• Stand and join the two columns to form the base. Clamp the assembly using angled cauls that conform to the curve of each column (figure N).

• The angled cauls provide two parallel planes for the clamps to grab onto for even clamping pressure (figure O) as the glue dries.

• Allow the epoxy to cure overnight.

In the segment that follows, the top of the base is prepared for the glass top and a wood finish is applied.